Chef of the Week: Sujan Sarkar — Reimagining Indian Fine Dining in Chicago
Few chefs are redefining the boundaries of Indian cuisine quite like Sujan Sarkar, the visionary behind Indienne, Chicago’s celebrated modern Indian fine dining restaurant. With a career that spans London, Dubai, India, and now the U.S., Chef Sarkar brings a globally informed yet deeply personal perspective to his cooking—one rooted in tradition but driven by innovation.
At Indienne, Sarkar’s mission is bold but clear: to present Indian flavors with the same finesse, structure, and emotional depth found in the world’s most revered culinary traditions. The result? A tasting menu that both honors and elevates Indian cuisine—surprising diners with refined technique, inventive presentations, and an unmistakable sense of cultural storytelling.
In this exclusive Chef’s Pencil interview, Chef Sarkar reflects on his international journey, the evolution of modern Indian cuisine, and how he’s using food to expand perceptions, spark dialogue, and celebrate the diversity of India’s culinary heritage—one unforgettable dish at a time.
1. You’ve cooked in London, Dubai, India, and now Chicago—how have these global experiences shaped your culinary identity?
Each city I’ve worked in has left a lasting imprint on how I cook and think about food. London taught me structure and finesse. It taught me precision, restraint, and the power of technique. Dubai showed me to scale and ambition – what it means to cook for a global audience, to think bigger without losing integrity.
India, of course, is my foundation. It’s where my palate was formed, where memory and tradition come together. And Chicago has been a turning point in my career. It gave me the freedom to bring all of those experiences together and reimagine Indian cuisine through a global lens. It’s where I’ve been able to take creative risks, break away from expectations, and define my voice as a chef.
2. What originally inspired you to become a chef, and how has that inspiration evolved throughout your career?
I actually wanted to pursue fashion design at first… but when that path didn’t work out, I found myself in culinary school. What I thought would be a temporary detour turned out to be the defining decision of my life. Cooking quickly became more than just a skill—it became a form of expression, my way of creating, communicating, and connecting. Today, it’s how I share stories, celebrate my heritage, and help push cultural conversations forward.
3. You’ve worked in both traditional and modern kitchens—what was the turning point that led you to explore contemporary Indian cuisine?
While working in Europe, I was struck by how rarely Indian cuisine was part of the fine dining conversation. It was often overlooked or misunderstood – seen through a narrow lens and stripped of its depth and diversity. That realization stayed with me. I didn’t want to modernize Indian food for the sake of novelty or aesthetics. I wanted to explore its full range – its sophistication, its regional nuances, its emotional resonance – and present it with the same respect and refinement afforded to other global cuisines. That became my purpose: to push boundaries without losing the soul of the cuisine.
While working in Europe, I was struck by how rarely Indian cuisine was part of the fine dining conversation.
I wanted to create food that felt contemporary but was still rooted in tradition – food that could spark curious minds, challenge preconceived notions, and ultimately expand how people experience Indian flavors. It’s not about reinventing the cuisine, it’s about revealing its potential in a new light.
4. Indienne has been widely praised for redefining modern Indian fine dining. What was your vision when launching the restaurant in Chicago?
The vision was simple but ambitious… to create a fine dining experience that is Indian at its core, but reimagined with progressive techniques, plating, and storytelling. I didn’t want to dilute the flavors or cater to Western expectations. I wanted to challenge them and present Indian cuisine with the same nuance and elegance as any other global cuisine that holds space in the fine dining world. I wanted to build something that was familiar in spirit, but with a fresh execution. Something that Chicago, and really America, hadn’t seen before.
5. How do you approach balancing Indian culinary tradition with modern techniques and presentation at Indienne?
For us, everything begins with authenticity. We start with the essence of a dish – the flavors, the structure. Then we explore how it can evolve. That might mean rethinking the technique, format, or plating in a way that elevates the dish without overshadowing its origins. It’s not about fusion – it’s about progression. If a dish can surprise you while still feeling undeniably Indian, then we’ve done our job.
6. What are some key challenges you faced in introducing a tasting menu format for Indian cuisine, and how did diners respond?
There was definitely some initial hesitation—many people didn’t associate Indian cuisine with the formality or structure of a tasting menu. But once guests experienced the journey we created, they understood it. The tasting menu format actually became one of our biggest strengths, allowing us to guide the experience with purpose and intention.
7. What’s one dish on the menu that best captures your philosophy as a chef? Can you share the inspiration behind it?
Our yogurt chaat is a great example. It’s playful, nostalgic, textural – built on a dish everyone knows, but completely reinterpreted. It surprises people while staying rooted in the core flavors. That’s the philosophy: make it feel Indian but entirely new at the same time.
8. India’s regional cuisines are incredibly diverse. Is there a particular region whose culinary traditions inspire you the most right now—and why?
Lately, I’ve been really drawn to the Northeast and the coastal South. These are regions with incredibly rich culinary traditions that haven’t yet reached the global stage. In these areas, there’s a lot of indigenous wisdom, fermentation techniques, and ingredient-led cooking. There’s so much to explore, and so much potential to bring those stories to a broader audience.
9. What does “modern Indian cuisine” mean to you, and how do you define it beyond just plating or technique?
To me, modern Indian cuisine is about storytelling. It’s about reinterpreting tradition with intention and respect, not innovation for the sake of novelty. To modernize something means to evolve it – there is constant dialogue about how we can bridge heritage and creativity. The dishes still carry the memory, the emotion, and the spirit of where they come from – but they’re expressed through a different language, one that brings in new audiences without compromising authenticity.
10. Indian cuisine is often seen through a narrow lens globally. What misconceptions do you aim to challenge through your food?
That it’s all spicy, heavy, or one-dimensional – and that couldn’t be further from the truth! Through my restaurants, I want to challenge those oversimplified narratives and expand people’s understanding of what Indian cuisine can be. I want diners to experience its delicacy, its elegance, its lightness, its seasonality. Indian cuisine isn’t one thing, it’s a mosaic. And my role as a chef is to reveal just how versatile, nuanced, and complex it truly is.
11. How do you incorporate seasonal or local Midwestern ingredients into dishes inspired by Indian flavors and traditions?
We remain true to the spirit of a dish but we often adapt the ingredients so we can use what’s fresh and local. For example, we use walleye for our meen moilee (a Kerala-style fish curry) instead of the usual seer fish or pomfret, because walleye is native to the Midwest. By embracing local ingredients, we celebrate where we are geographically while staying connected to where the dish comes from.
12. You’ve built a high-performing team at Indienne. How do you cultivate creativity and precision in a demanding fine-dining kitchen?
It all starts with the culture. In our kitchen, everyone knows they have a voice and the freedom to contribute ideas, but they also understand that precision, consistency, and attention to detail are non negotiable. We operate on trust, mutual respect, and a shared vision. That’s what keeps us sharp as a team. We build an environment where people can take risks, learn from each other, and push each other to be better every day.
13. What’s your process when developing a new dish—from concept to execution?
It usually starts with a memory, or even a visual sketch. Then I think through texture, flavor balance, and plating. From there, we workshop the dish – we test it, refine it, and make sure it tells the story we want to tell. If it doesn’t evoke something – like emotion, curiosity, nostalgia – or if it doesn’t surprise you in some way, it doesn’t make the menu.
14. How do you stay inspired and avoid creative burnout, especially when constantly pushing culinary boundaries?
Inspiration comes from travel, from collaboration, and always staying curious. I intentionally surround myself with people who challenge me creatively or those who bring new perspectives or experiences. But I also find it’s important to reconnect with the reasons I started cooking in the first place. When I come back to that core purpose, it grounds me and keeps the energy fresh.
15. Indienne earned a Michelin star within its first year—an incredible achievement. What did that recognition mean to you personally and professionally?
It meant so much – not only to me, but to my team, and for Indian cuisine in general. Of course, it’s the kind of recognition that so many chefs dream of and to receive it within our first year at Indienne was surreal. But it was also validation for the team that worked tirelessly behind the scenes. It affirmed that we could stay true to our roots and still innovate… that we didn’t have to compromise flavor or culture to be considered world-class. It signals that there’s space at the table for our traditions and our stories and that’s what’s really important.
16. How do you manage the pressure of maintaining excellence while continuing to innovate?
We stay grounded in the basics – hospitality, consistency, and purpose. At the end of the day, innovation is only meaningful if your foundation is strong. It’s easy to get caught up in the pressure, but it’s better to use it as fuel. It keeps us focused.
17. What advice would you give to young chefs who want to elevate traditional cuisines through a modern lens?
Start with the roots. Before you reinterpret anything, take the time to understand where it comes from – the culture, the ingredients, the people behind the food. Cook the dishes the way they’ve been cooked for generations. That’s the only way to build a foundation that’s strong enough to carry innovation. Once you have that understanding, don’t be afraid! But innovate with purpose. When you lead with authenticity and respect, you’ll find your confidence.
Before you reinterpret anything, take the time to understand where it comes from – the culture, the ingredients, the people behind the food.
18. Do you have a favorite Indian ingredient that you find yourself returning to time and again—either for its flavor, versatility, or emotional connection?
Tamarind. It’s bold, complex, and endlessly versatile. Whether it’s used in a chutney or a curry, it brings brightness and balance. It has this layered personality that makes a dish feel alive.
19. What’s your go-to comfort food when you’re off the clock? Is there a dish from your childhood that still holds a special place in your heart?
Definitely khichdi with ghee and fried eggplant. It’s as humble as it gets, but that’s the beauty of it. It’s soulful, nourishing, and it reminds me of home. No matter where I am in the world, that’s my reset button.
20. What’s next for you—are there new concepts, flavors, or collaborations you’re excited to explore?
I just opened Nadu in Chicago, which explores bold, regional flavors in a more casual yet still progressive format. I also recently spent some time in Mexico City, working with local chefs and doing a collaborative pop-up at Indienne. Those experiences really opened up my eyes to how Indian and Mexican cuisines are similar in so many ways, so I’m interested in exploring how those intersections can evolve naturally. Beyond that, I’m looking to conceptualize a book – and, of course, I’m looking ahead to future restaurant projects, always with the goal of expanding thoughtfully.
21. Where do you see the evolution of Indian fine dining headed in the next 5–10 years, both in the U.S. and globally?
I think we’re going to see more regional diversity, more personal storytelling, and more global recognition. Indian cuisine is stepping into a new era – where it’s not just accepted, it’s celebrated at the highest level. And this is just the beginning!
Chef Sujan Sarkar
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Indienne Restaurant
Paneer Katli recipe by Chef Sujan Sarkar
