Chef Interviews Archives - Chef's Pencil https://www.chefspencil.com/chef-interviews/ Professional Chef Recipes Mon, 18 Aug 2025 07:44:32 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.8.2 https://www.chefspencil.com/wp-content/uploads/cropped-favicon-chefspencil1-32x32.png Chef Interviews Archives - Chef's Pencil https://www.chefspencil.com/chef-interviews/ 32 32 Chef of the Week: Davis King – Executive Chef, BeetleCat, Atlanta, GA https://www.chefspencil.com/chef-of-the-week-davis-king-executive-chef-beetlecat-atlanta-ga/ https://www.chefspencil.com/chef-of-the-week-davis-king-executive-chef-beetlecat-atlanta-ga/#respond Mon, 18 Aug 2025 07:44:27 +0000 https://www.chefspencil.com/?p=115819 From shelling peas with his grandmother in the South to getting a kitchen shout-out at Commander’s Palace at just 13, Chef Davis King’s love of food has always been part of his DNA. His early curiosity led him to start a culinary club in middle school and later dive headfirst into professional kitchens during college,...

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From shelling peas with his grandmother in the South to getting a kitchen shout-out at Commander’s Palace at just 13, Chef Davis King’s love of food has always been part of his DNA. His early curiosity led him to start a culinary club in middle school and later dive headfirst into professional kitchens during college, where he learned the value of both formal training and on-the-job mentorship.

Today, as Executive Chef of BeetleCat, an eclectic seafood haven in Atlanta, Davis blends bold flavors, global influences, and a playful, approachable style. Whether it’s a refined lobster roll, spicy shrimp noodles, or his personal favorite melon and papaya salad, his dishes balance creativity with comfort — a philosophy shaped by his Southern roots, formative mentorships, and a passion for seasonality. In a city that “knows good food,” Chef King is determined to keep every plate fresh, flavorful, and memorable.

Check out this exclusive Chef’s Pencil interview with Chef Davis King below.

Your passion for food began at a young age, even leading you to start a culinary club in the 8th grade. Can you share more about those early experiences and how they influenced your decision to pursue a culinary career?

I grew up in the South, where food is just a huge part of life. I was always in the kitchen with my mom and grandmother doing something to help: stringing beans, picking through black-eyed peas for rocks, shucking corn and cleaning collard greens. If my mom and grandmother had to go out, they would always let me pick lunch or where we would go to eat. My mom cooked dinner every night and was a great cook. I always loved to eat and be in the kitchen with my family.

A pivotal moment in your culinary journey was dining at Commander’s Palace in New Orleans at age 13. What was it about that experience that left such a lasting impression on you?

Commander’s Palace is an institution. It’s like the classic of classics. Going to eat there was a big deal for me, and I remember the service team treated me like I knew what I was talking about. After the meal, they asked if I wanted to see the kitchen. I was so excited! They walked me down the stairs to the kitchen, and as I walked in, the team shouted a resounding “oui chef.” I will never forget that moment.

You began cooking professionally during college. What’s your take on formal culinary education—do you see it as essential, or can experience in the kitchen be just as powerful?

As I continue to grow as a chef learning every day, I see value in both classically trained cooks and cooks that learn on the job. It’s awesome to have a balance in your kitchen; cooks teaching other cooks is such a beautiful thing to see.

Was there a chef, dish, or experience early in your career that had a lasting impact on how you cook today?

I remember walking into Seven Lamps by Drew Van Leuvan as a young cook and being blown away by everything. Because the menu was such a freestyle, seasonal roller coaster, I was constantly learning and innovating every day. Drew taught me how to be a real cook, how to work fast and how to work clean. I remember watching him on the line every night; he was so consistent and organized. 

BeetleCat is known for its fun, seafood-centric menu with global influences. How do you approach menu development in such a playful and eclectic space?

I was always taught that “if it grows together, it goes together.” From there, I am a fan of putting “more” of everything in the dish: more lemon, more garlic, more ginger – but, most of all, keep it simple: a bold, big spice, big flavor that people know they love. Make it fun but also approachable. 

 beetlecat restaurant
Beetlecat Restaurant; Photo credit: Andrew Thomas Lee

How do you strike the balance between approachability and innovation at BeetleCat—especially when it comes to seafood, which can be polarizing for some diners?

We have the classics, like a lobster roll that absolutely allows the lobster to be the star, and the fish and chips that are so classic with beer batter. Then, we have the spicy shrimp noodles – taking high quality seafood marinated in South Asian flavors – so a little classic and a little fun to create that balance. 

Lobster Roll with Aioli by Andrew Thomas Lee
Lobster Roll with Aioli; Photo credit: Andrew Thomas Lee

What’s one dish on the menu that really speaks to your culinary point of view? What’s the story behind it?

We are running a couple of salads on the menu, and the melon and papaya salad is my favorite. We take sweet local melon grown in nearby Decatur, beautiful local herbs and tomatoes, crunchy crisp papaya and this really vibrant tangy fish sauce and lime vinaigrette. It’s the perfect balance of spice and sweet; I just love it.

If someone is visiting BeetleCat for the first time, what’s the one dish you’d tell them they absolutely have to try?

We refreshed our menu recently, and the dish that has really taken off to be a fan favorite is the beef tartare. It’s wicked good and really fun to share at the table. We hand grind beef to order and serve it as a build your own hand roll, with nori, well-seasoned sushi rice, crispy chicken skin, soy pickled mushrooms, brown butter aioli and salmon roe. 

Sourcing quality seafood is key. How do you approach procurement and sustainability when planning your menus?

It’s about having a great relationship with your suppliers. 

Are there any ingredients—seafood or otherwise—that you find yourself constantly drawn to or experimenting with?

I’m all about using what’s in season! 

What’s a seafood dish or technique that you think more home cooks should embrace?

Roasting fish whole is the easiest and most forgiving method. And you can go any direction you want with the flavor!

How would you describe Atlanta’s current food scene, especially when it comes to seafood?

We do have a lot of seafood options. Atlanta has gone through its peaks and valleys, and I think right now we have a ton of great food with a lot of great farmers. Plus, guests really want to eat. We have such a diverse environment that there is something for everyone. 

What makes the Atlanta dining public unique, and how has it shaped how you cook at BeetleCat?

Guests in Atlanta know good food, so it really makes you stay on top of your game at all times. Atlanta is also the biggest small town, and people talk, so it’s always important to give every guest the full and best experience possible. 

Are there any local chefs or restaurants you admire or draw inspiration from within the city?

I love seeing what Chase Green is doing at No. 246 and what Eddie Barrett’s got going on at The Optimist Atl – but anyone who knows me will find me on Buford Highway eating around.

What’s the biggest lesson you’ve learned in your role as Executive Chef at BeetleCat?

My biggest lesson that I have learned is the importance of flexibility, not only with my staff but with myself – making sure that I am receptive to change and always supporting forward progress. 

How do you stay creatively inspired in a fast-paced, trend-driven industry?

Seasonality! It’s hard to not be inspired by beautiful products. 

What’s next for you—any new directions, flavors, or collaborations you’re excited to explore?

I’m really just focused on making BeetleCat the best restaurant it can be. 


Chef Davis King
LinkedIn
BeetleCat

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Chef of the Week: Inside Mark Ordaz’s Seasonal Kitchen at Blue Hill https://www.chefspencil.com/chef-of-the-week-inside-mark-ordazs-seasonal-kitchen-at-blue-hill/ https://www.chefspencil.com/chef-of-the-week-inside-mark-ordazs-seasonal-kitchen-at-blue-hill/#respond Mon, 11 Aug 2025 11:44:04 +0000 https://www.chefspencil.com/?p=115802 We’re thrilled to shine the spotlight on Chef Mark Ordaz, Executive Chef at Family Meal at Blue Hill, NY, in this week’s Chef of the Week feature. Known for his market-driven style — creating dishes inspired by the freshest seasonal ingredients sourced directly from local farms — Mark brings spontaneity, creativity, and precision to every...

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We’re thrilled to shine the spotlight on Chef Mark Ordaz, Executive Chef at Family Meal at Blue Hill, NY, in this week’s Chef of the Week feature. Known for his market-driven style — creating dishes inspired by the freshest seasonal ingredients sourced directly from local farms — Mark brings spontaneity, creativity, and precision to every plate. His leadership style fosters creativity and ownership among his team, while his dedication to sustainability has helped earn both Michelin and Green Stars for Family Meal.

From his early days at Daniel Boulud’s DB Bistro Moderne to the transformative influence of working alongside Chef Dan Barber at Blue Hill, Mark’s journey has been shaped by a deep respect for ingredients and the people who grow them. In our exclusive conversation, he shares the ingredients he’s loving right now, the practices that keep his kitchen both sustainable and inspired, and why, at the end of a long night, macaroni and cheese is still his ultimate comfort food.

At Family Meal, dishes are often crafted on the day they’re served. How do you and your team approach this spontaneous creation while ensuring consistency and quality?

Most of the changes we make happen before the day starts in the kitchen. We go to every market day so that we can taste everything constantly and talk with the farmers about what they’re most excited about—but also what they are struggling to sell.

We talk with the farmers about what they’re most excited about—but also what they are struggling to sell.

As far as consistency, because of the family-style dishes we do, we’re able to adjust throughout the night. For us, consistency comes with constant tasting. For example, sometimes we bring in the same ingredient from multiple farms, and each farm is unique as far as farming techniques, weather, soil quality, etc. so that means each ingredient comes out differently and needs special attention.

What are your top three favorite ingredients to cook with right now, and why?

That’s a tough question to answer with the season changing so fast this year, but first I think cucumbers. There are so many different varieties, the quality has been great, and you can use most of the plant. The leaves have a very intense bitter cucumber flavor that we have been using to make a sorbet.

And cherries are great so far this year. They usually make it through every part of our menu before the season is over because they’re so versatile. They’re great as the main ingredient but also add a ton of flavor and depth to other savory dishes. And then there’s Sweet Garleek (i.e. a first ever cross between garlic and leek), one of the newer vegetables from Row 7. And if you like leeks then this is what you should be using—the flavor is super well balanced and the name is spot on: it’s so sweet.

FamilyMeal-CreditJordanSapally
Chef Mark Ortaz; photo credit: Jordan Sapally

Can you share an instance where a particular seasonal ingredient inspired a new dish or altered your culinary approach?

Every season there’s something that really stands out and it’s never the same year to year. I guess the one thing that comes to mind is pepper season. Peppers have a huge variety of flavors and applications. If you use them right you can make something that will last the whole year. They make great ferments, jellies, and powders.

What strategies do you employ to encourage your team to contribute creatively to the ever-evolving menu?

I don’t know if you call this a strategy, but we try not to use recipes for each and every thing. There’s always a time when it’s necessary, mostly for pastry and breads, but for the most part we like to create from a list of ingredients. Then we show the cooks and explain the process but also remind them that it will take constant tasting and adjustment to get it right.

I think by doing this it gives our cooks a sense of ownership and responsibility that teaches them to think a little more creatively. Of course we also ask for their input when we teach them a new dish. It’s meant to be done a certain way but we also like to hear what they think and what they would change or add.

How do you mentor emerging chefs in your kitchen, and what qualities do you look for
when nurturing talent?

I try to give everyone the same opportunities and chances to learn and grow but with some of the cooks that have been here longer or moved into junior positions I try to get them to think about how to create a full menu. I think making one dish is a great start and we do that with some of the newer cooks, but to think about a menu as a whole—and what the end result and feeling is for the guest—is a great way to really start thinking about what kind of chef you want to be.

As far as qualities, the ones I look out for the most are humility, self awareness, and constant curiosity.

As far as qualities, the ones I look out for the most are humility, self awareness, and constant curiosity. I think if you’re naturally just a creative person that’s great and can go a long way but if you don’t ask the right questions, can’t take constructive criticism, and have a hard time reflecting or taking responsibility then it makes it difficult to grow.

Do you ever worry that terms like “sustainable” or “local” have lost their impact? How do you keep those values alive without sounding like a sales pitch?

I don’t think they’ve necessarily lost their impact. It seems like the majority of the top restaurants are working toward making good on those values. Everyone has their own way, but it’s a priority for us to do that through our sourcing.

We also compost what we can, and are constantly looking for ways to cut down on waste and repurpose scraps instead. Most importantly, we try to make sure the work we do is sustainable for the staff by balancing work and life, and making sure they enjoy their work and don’t feel like it’s a burden to show up everyday.

What practices have you implemented in the kitchen to reduce food waste and promote sustainability?

First, we just try to use everything that we can, for stocks, ferments or seasoning salts. We also added a bar menu option to our dinner service that allows us to sell some of the cuts of meat that might not make it on the menu. We also send our compost to a queens based company called Afterlife, which uses all
the compost for mushroom production.

We added a bar menu option to our dinner service that allows us to sell some of the cuts of meat that might not make it on the menu.

Who have been your most significant culinary influences, and how have they shaped your approach to cooking?

This is a long list. I think from the start there were a lot of cooks and sous chefs that I looked up to when I first moved to New York. My first restaurant was DB Bistro Moderne— of course Daniel Boulud was a huge influence, a chef I have so much respect for, but it was a lot of the cooks there that really taught me teamwork and how to push myself without sacrificing quality. Sean Gray was also another huge influence. I truly believe any creativity I have was brought out by him. To this day I think about doing R&D with him back at Ko.

Currently it’s Chef Dan [Barber]. Before coming to Blue Hill I had thought I knew what it meant to source properly and cook locally but since starting here I have really started to see if from his lens. I don’t know that I’ll ever have the full, bigger picture understanding the way he does but what I’ve learned so far has really pushed me to be better all around. I’ve learned something or been influenced by almost everyone I have ever worked with.

Reflecting on your career, how has your culinary style evolved over the years, and what experiences have been pivotal in that transformation?

I don’t know how I would define my “style” and for a long time I tried to force it, to the point that I didn’t want to cook anymore. I think when I started here at Family Meal, that was the biggest transformation. It became less about me and more about the produce we were cooking, or the breed of certain proteins and once that was the focus it was like a huge weight off my shoulders. I knew I had to do right by those ingredients and details, and once that was clear the creativity happened and it didn’t feel forced
anymore.

FamilyMeal at Blue Hill-Credit JordanSapally
Family Meal at Blue Hill Restaurant; Photo credit: Jordan Sapally

How do you define success in your role, and what achievements are you most proud of at Family Meal?

The Michelin Star and Green Star have definitely been something we are very proud of—the Green Star especially because it recognizes the work that we do to be as sustainable as possible. But the day-to-day achievement that I’m most proud of is the team. We’ve had a steady team for quite some time and I think the work they do is what’s helped us maintain our stars.

Without a set menu, how do you gather and interpret guest feedback to refine the dining experience?

We rely heavily on the front-of-house team to help gather guest feedback. We check reviews but that isn’t always the most reliable source — people tend to let out every feeling they have when it’s online for everyone to see, which makes it less constructive. The staff do a great job engaging with guests and finding out what their preferences are or why they didn’t like a dish. We know we won’t win with everyone.

After a long service, what’s your go-to comfort food at home?

I think for me it’s macaroni and cheese. It’s the perfect snack no matter how the service went—could have been the best or worst service of your life, it’s still gonna hit the same.

Otto File Johnny Cakes
Otto File Johnny Cakes

Featured photo credit: Jordan Sapally

Mark Ordaz
Instagram | LinkedIn
Family Meal at Blue Hill

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Chef of the Week: Jakub Baster, the Culinary Force Behind Yingtao, NY https://www.chefspencil.com/chef-of-the-week-jakub-baster-the-culinary-force-behind-yingtao-ny/ https://www.chefspencil.com/chef-of-the-week-jakub-baster-the-culinary-force-behind-yingtao-ny/#respond Mon, 28 Jul 2025 16:02:17 +0000 https://www.chefspencil.com/?p=115764 This week at Chef’s Pencil, we go behind the scenes with Chef Jakub, the Polish-born chef behind the bold and creative menu at Yingtao, one of New York City’s most exciting modern Chinese fine-dining restaurants. In this exclusive interview, Jakub shares his unconventional path through Michelin-starred kitchens, his dynamic partnership with Bolun Yao, and the...

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This week at Chef’s Pencil, we go behind the scenes with Chef Jakub, the Polish-born chef behind the bold and creative menu at Yingtao, one of New York City’s most exciting modern Chinese fine-dining restaurants. In this exclusive interview, Jakub shares his unconventional path through Michelin-starred kitchens, his dynamic partnership with Bolun Yao, and the deeply personal storytelling behind Yingtao’s menu.

From biodynamic farms in Spain to Peruvian kitchens and Parisian palaces, Jakub’s global experience and curious spirit are at the heart of a cuisine that reimagines tradition through a truly multicultural lens. This is more than just fine dining—it’s a culinary conversation between cultures.

Background and Culinary Journey

Jakub’s culinary journey has taken him across France, Chicago, New York, and Peru, where he refined his skills and developed a globally inspired approach to cooking that aligns beautifully with Yingtao’s cross-cultural ethos. What sets Jakub apart is that, despite an impressive background, he never attended culinary school—instead, he rose through the ranks by working in every position in the kitchen, experiences that shaped his leadership style and deep respect for the craft.

His notable experience includes time at celebrated establishments such as the Michelin-starred Daniel in New York City, Astrid & Gastón in Lima (a Michelin-starred and World’s 50 Best restaurant), Sixteen in Chicago, La Dame de Pic at the Four Seasons Megève, and Château de Montcaud, part of the prestigious Relais & Châteaux group in France. Yingtao stood out to Jakub because it’s unlike other fine-dining establishments in New York—it’s fun, bold, and truly unique, making its mark in the city’s culinary scene. The opportunity to be creative, push boundaries, and learn a new culture and cuisine, even after years of experience, was what drew him in.

With extensive training in kitchen management both in the U.S. and internationally, Jakub is excited to harness this experience to lead Yingtao’s culinary program. Together with Bolun, he has crafted a menu that blends his classical training with Bolun’s deep knowledge of Chinese flavors.

1. Were there any pivotal experiences or mentors in your early career that helped shape your approach to food?

Yes—there were three big ones. Working at Daniel in NYC taught me so much about sauces and technique. Astrid y Gastón in Lima opened my eyes to how wild and amazing ingredients can be. And spending time on a biodynamic farm in Spain really grounded me in the value of produce and the work that goes into growing it.

2. What drew you to the flavors and techniques that Yingtao is rooted in—was there a personal or cultural connection?

I was drawn to Yingtao’s flavors and techniques from the opportunity to explore a cuisine and culture that was new to me, despite the lengthy culinary background. I believe that the best cooking comes from curiosity and a willingness to keep learning.

The bold, layered flavors of Chinese cuisine, the precision behind its techniques, the deep roots/history, and the chance to collaborate with Bolun to honor tradition and his grandma while creating something fresh and unexpected really spoke to me. Yingtao represents a chance to challenge myself, push creative boundaries, and contribute to a culinary dialogue that bridges cultures in an authentic and respectful way.

YingTao Restaurant
YingTao Restaurant; Photo credit: Max Burkhalter

3. How did your collaboration with Bolun begin, and how do your respective backgrounds complement each other creatively?

Jakub and Bolun’s collaboration began through a shared vision of creating a restaurant that blends fine-dining precision with bold, playful storytelling. From the start, they recognized how well their backgrounds complemented each other.

Jakub brings extensive classical training and global experience, while Bolun contributes deep knowledge of Chinese cuisine, culture, and flavors, along with a sharp eye for modern dining trends. Together, they challenge and inspire one another to rethink boundaries, marrying tradition with innovation to create a menu that feels both rooted and fresh. Their partnership is built on mutual respect, curiosity, and a desire to offer guests something truly unique.

4. Yingtao has a distinct identity. How would you describe the restaurant’s culinary philosophy in a sentence or two?

Yingtao’s culinary philosophy is about honoring the foundations of Chinese cuisine while embracing global influences and modern techniques to create something bold, fun, and unexpected. It’s a fine-dining experience that celebrates tradition but isn’t afraid to take risks, spark curiosity, and tell a new story through food.

5. How do you and Bolun Yao balance traditional Chinese culinary elements with modern techniques and global influences in your dishes?

We approach each dish with respect for the traditions and flavors at the heart of Chinese cuisine, while looking for ways to reinterpret them through a modern, global lens. We focus on preserving the soul of classic ingredients and techniques, but aren’t afraid to layer in influences from my European training or apply contemporary methods to enhance texture, flavor, or presentation.

The balance comes from a shared commitment to authenticity and creativity, always asking how we can honor the essence of a dish or ingredient while offering guests something surprising and new.

6. Do you have a favorite ingredient—one that excites you every time you use it or has special meaning to you?

Lately I’ve been loving peak-season celtuce for its crunch and versatility, and Montauk royal red shrimp—they’re incredibly sweet and clean.

Lately I’ve been loving two things: peak-season celtuce—it’s nutty, super crunchy, and you can use both the stem and the leafy tops. And royal red shrimp from Montauk—they remind me of the crystal shrimp I had in Formentera. So sweet and clean, I like serving them raw or lightly cured.

Gamba (Evan Sung)
Gamba; Photo credit: Evan Sung

8. What’s one dish on your menu that you feel truly captures your personal culinary voice? What’s the story behind it?

Right now, it’s the steelhead trout from Napa Valley. It’s poached in infused oil, with a Shaoxing, sake, and preserved Meyer lemon beurre monté, marinated celtuce, soy-cured ikura, and chamomile oil. It’s simple but thoughtful—the kind of dish that lets each ingredient shine without overcomplicating things.

9. Are there any flavor combinations or techniques that you think more chefs should be exploring, especially in the realm of modern Asian or fusion cuisine?

I believe there’s so much potential in exploring fermentation beyond the familiar, especially in modern Asian or fusion cuisine. Ingredients like aged soy, black garlic, or fermented grains can add incredible depth and complexity when combined thoughtfully with global techniques.

We could all lean into balancing bold spice with subtle sweetness or bitterness, flavor contrasts that are central to many Asian cuisines but can be pushed further in new ways in the city of New York. Ultimately, it’s about staying curious and open to reimagining how traditional elements can be layered into a modern, global context.

10. Do you see Yingtao as a space for cultural storytelling through food? If so, what narratives are you most passionate about sharing?

Absolutely. Yingtao is very much a space for cultural storytelling through food. We see each dish as an opportunity to spark dialogue about tradition, memory, and identity. We’re passionate about sharing narratives that celebrate the richness and diversity of Chinese cuisine, while also highlighting how food can bridge cultures and evolve over time.

For me, it’s about honoring these traditions while inviting guests to experience them in a new light, whether it’s through unexpected pairings, modern techniques, or playful presentations that challenge assumptions and encourage curiosity.

Ube Cheesecake Credit Paola Baylon
Ube Cheesecake; Photo credit: Paola Baylon

11. How do you stay creatively inspired—especially when operating within a concept that involves cross-cultural fusion?

Continue eating and exploring the culinary scene in NYC. There are so many rich and hidden options as well as new openings. I try to stay up to date, but It’s impossible to try them all.

Nian Gao Credit Paul Quitoriano
Nian Gao; Photo credit: Paul Quitoriano

12. How do you balance innovation with approachability—ensuring your food connects emotionally with diners?

Innovation is only meaningful if it resonates emotionally with diners. I focus on creating dishes that feel exciting and unexpected, but always grounded in familiar flavors, comforting textures, or shared cultural memories that guests can connect with. It’s about finding that sweet spot where creativity sparks curiosity without feeling alienating.

13. When building your kitchen team at Yingtao, what qualities do you look for in new hires—beyond technical skill? How do you identify someone who will thrive in a creative, culturally rich environment like yours?

Yingtao is a good opportunity for new chefs. Technical ability is important, but what matters even more is attitude, a willingness to learn, collaborate, and challenge oneself creatively. In a space like Yingtao, where the food tells stories and bridges cultures, it’s essential to have team members who are thoughtful, adaptable, and passionate about contributing to that dialogue.

14. Do you consider formal culinary education a must when hiring, or is it more of a bonus? What matters most to you when evaluating someone’s potential in the kitchen?

From my own culinary experience, formal culinary education is not a must, it’s a bonus, but not what defines a person’s potential in the kitchen. At Yingtao, it’s about building a team that’s eager to contribute to something greater, no matter how they got their start. I look for individuals who take pride in their craft.

15. How do you encourage your team to experiment or contribute creatively to the menu?

The best ideas come from collaboration, so we work hard to create an environment where the team feels comfortable sharing ideas and experimenting.

Canapés (Paul Quitoriano)
Canapés; Photo credit: Paul Quitoriano

16. You’re originally from Poland—what’s your ultimate Polish comfort food, and do you ever find ways to sneak those flavors or memories into your cooking at Yingtao?

Definitely Silesian dumplings, rosół with homemade egg noodles, and karpatka with rhubarb for dessert. While Yingtao is very much rooted in modern Chinese flavors, those Polish memories still find little ways to sneak in here and there—nothing too obvious, but they’re there.

17. Do you think we’ll ever see a fine dining restaurant from you that celebrates Polish cuisine in a modern way? What would that look like in your hands?

Not something I’m thinking about at the moment, but I do think a modern Polish concept in NYC could be super cool—probably not fine dining, though. Something more casual and fun with creative spins on classic dishes.

18. Which regional cuisine—Asian or otherwise—is currently inspiring you the most, and why?

Xinjiang cuisine from northwestern China. It’s super exciting—amazing spice blends, deep flavors, and a fascinating mix of Chinese and Muslim influences thanks to the old Silk Road routes.

19. What’s been the most surprising reaction to a dish you’ve created—either from guests or critics?

One of the most surprising and rewarding reactions are to dishes that blend a classic Chinese flavor profile with a technique more common in European fine dining. Guests end up moved by how familiar and comforting the flavors felt despite the modern presentation. Seeing that emotional connection, when diners realize that something new can still feel like home, has been one of the most powerful affirmations of Yingtao’s approach.

20. What’s next for you and Yingtao—new projects, collaborations, or flavors you’re excited to explore?

We’re working on some new seasonal menus and diving into bigger, bolder flavor ideas.

21. What do you hope diners walk away with after experiencing your food at Yingtao—not just in taste, but in feeling or thought?

Yingtao pays homage to Bolun’s grandmother. I hope people leave with a deeper appreciation for how food can bridge cultures, tell stories. Beyond taste, I hope guests walk away feeling surprised, and connected to tradition, to something new, and maybe even to their own memories or experiences.

Tofu Credit Paul Quitoriano
Tofu; Photo credit Paul Quitoriano

Chef Jakub Baster | Instagram
Yingtao

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Chef of the Week: Sujan Sarkar — Reimagining Indian Fine Dining in Chicago https://www.chefspencil.com/chef-of-the-week-sujan-sarkar-reimagining-indian-fine-dining-in-chicago/ https://www.chefspencil.com/chef-of-the-week-sujan-sarkar-reimagining-indian-fine-dining-in-chicago/#respond Mon, 21 Jul 2025 11:00:56 +0000 https://www.chefspencil.com/?p=115455 Few chefs are redefining the boundaries of Indian cuisine quite like Sujan Sarkar, the visionary behind Indienne, Chicago’s celebrated modern Indian fine dining restaurant. With a career that spans London, Dubai, India, and now the U.S., Chef Sarkar brings a globally informed yet deeply personal perspective to his cooking—one rooted in tradition but driven by...

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Few chefs are redefining the boundaries of Indian cuisine quite like Sujan Sarkar, the visionary behind Indienne, Chicago’s celebrated modern Indian fine dining restaurant. With a career that spans London, Dubai, India, and now the U.S., Chef Sarkar brings a globally informed yet deeply personal perspective to his cooking—one rooted in tradition but driven by innovation.

At Indienne, Sarkar’s mission is bold but clear: to present Indian flavors with the same finesse, structure, and emotional depth found in the world’s most revered culinary traditions. The result? A tasting menu that both honors and elevates Indian cuisine—surprising diners with refined technique, inventive presentations, and an unmistakable sense of cultural storytelling.

In this exclusive Chef’s Pencil interview, Chef Sarkar reflects on his international journey, the evolution of modern Indian cuisine, and how he’s using food to expand perceptions, spark dialogue, and celebrate the diversity of India’s culinary heritage—one unforgettable dish at a time.

1. You’ve cooked in London, Dubai, India, and now Chicago—how have these global experiences shaped your culinary identity?

Each city I’ve worked in has left a lasting imprint on how I cook and think about food. London taught me structure and finesse. It taught me precision, restraint, and the power of technique. Dubai showed me to scale and ambition – what it means to cook for a global audience, to think bigger without losing integrity.

India, of course, is my foundation. It’s where my palate was formed, where memory and tradition come together. And Chicago has been a turning point in my career. It gave me the freedom to bring all of those experiences together and reimagine Indian cuisine through a global lens. It’s where I’ve been able to take creative risks, break away from expectations, and define my voice as a chef.

2. What originally inspired you to become a chef, and how has that inspiration evolved throughout your career?

I actually wanted to pursue fashion design at first… but when that path didn’t work out, I found myself in culinary school. What I thought would be a temporary detour turned out to be the defining decision of my life. Cooking quickly became more than just a skill—it became a form of expression, my way of creating, communicating, and connecting. Today, it’s how I share stories, celebrate my heritage, and help push cultural conversations forward.

3. You’ve worked in both traditional and modern kitchens—what was the turning point that led you to explore contemporary Indian cuisine?

While working in Europe, I was struck by how rarely Indian cuisine was part of the fine dining conversation. It was often overlooked or misunderstood – seen through a narrow lens and stripped of its depth and diversity. That realization stayed with me. I didn’t want to modernize Indian food for the sake of novelty or aesthetics. I wanted to explore its full range – its sophistication, its regional nuances, its emotional resonance – and present it with the same respect and refinement afforded to other global cuisines. That became my purpose: to push boundaries without losing the soul of the cuisine.

While working in Europe, I was struck by how rarely Indian cuisine was part of the fine dining conversation.

I wanted to create food that felt contemporary but was still rooted in tradition – food that could spark curious minds, challenge preconceived notions, and ultimately expand how people experience Indian flavors. It’s not about reinventing the cuisine, it’s about revealing its potential in a new light.

4. Indienne has been widely praised for redefining modern Indian fine dining. What was your vision when launching the restaurant in Chicago?

The vision was simple but ambitious… to create a fine dining experience that is Indian at its core, but reimagined with progressive techniques, plating, and storytelling. I didn’t want to dilute the flavors or cater to Western expectations. I wanted to challenge them and present Indian cuisine with the same nuance and elegance as any other global cuisine that holds space in the fine dining world. I wanted to build something that was familiar in spirit, but with a fresh execution. Something that Chicago, and really America, hadn’t seen before.

5. How do you approach balancing Indian culinary tradition with modern techniques and presentation at Indienne?

For us, everything begins with authenticity. We start with the essence of a dish – the flavors, the structure. Then we explore how it can evolve. That might mean rethinking the technique, format, or plating in a way that elevates the dish without overshadowing its origins. It’s not about fusion – it’s about progression. If a dish can surprise you while still feeling undeniably Indian, then we’ve done our job.

Scallop Xec Xec with golden Kaluga and miso; Photo Credit: Indienne Restaurant

6. What are some key challenges you faced in introducing a tasting menu format for Indian cuisine, and how did diners respond?

There was definitely some initial hesitation—many people didn’t associate Indian cuisine with the formality or structure of a tasting menu. But once guests experienced the journey we created, they understood it. The tasting menu format actually became one of our biggest strengths, allowing us to guide the experience with purpose and intention.

7. What’s one dish on the menu that best captures your philosophy as a chef? Can you share the inspiration behind it?

Our yogurt chaat is a great example. It’s playful, nostalgic, textural – built on a dish everyone knows, but completely reinterpreted. It surprises people while staying rooted in the core flavors. That’s the philosophy: make it feel Indian but entirely new at the same time.

Yogurt Chaat with layers of tamarind, mint, karambola and sweet potato; Photo Credit: Indienne Restaurant

8. India’s regional cuisines are incredibly diverse. Is there a particular region whose culinary traditions inspire you the most right now—and why?

Lately, I’ve been really drawn to the Northeast and the coastal South. These are regions with incredibly rich culinary traditions that haven’t yet reached the global stage. In these areas, there’s a lot of indigenous wisdom, fermentation techniques, and ingredient-led cooking. There’s so much to explore, and so much potential to bring those stories to a broader audience.

9. What does “modern Indian cuisine” mean to you, and how do you define it beyond just plating or technique?

To me, modern Indian cuisine is about storytelling. It’s about reinterpreting tradition with intention and respect, not innovation for the sake of novelty. To modernize something means to evolve it – there is constant dialogue about how we can bridge heritage and creativity. The dishes still carry the memory, the emotion, and the spirit of where they come from – but they’re expressed through a different language, one that brings in new audiences without compromising authenticity.

10. Indian cuisine is often seen through a narrow lens globally. What misconceptions do you aim to challenge through your food?

That it’s all spicy, heavy, or one-dimensional – and that couldn’t be further from the truth! Through my restaurants, I want to challenge those oversimplified narratives and expand people’s understanding of what Indian cuisine can be. I want diners to experience its delicacy, its elegance, its lightness, its seasonality. Indian cuisine isn’t one thing, it’s a mosaic. And my role as a chef is to reveal just how versatile, nuanced, and complex it truly is.

11. How do you incorporate seasonal or local Midwestern ingredients into dishes inspired by Indian flavors and traditions?

We remain true to the spirit of a dish but we often adapt the ingredients so we can use what’s fresh and local. For example, we use walleye for our meen moilee (a Kerala-style fish curry) instead of the usual seer fish or pomfret, because walleye is native to the Midwest. By embracing local ingredients, we celebrate where we are geographically while staying connected to where the dish comes from.

12. You’ve built a high-performing team at Indienne. How do you cultivate creativity and precision in a demanding fine-dining kitchen?

It all starts with the culture. In our kitchen, everyone knows they have a voice and the freedom to contribute ideas, but they also understand that precision, consistency, and attention to detail are non negotiable. We operate on trust, mutual respect, and a shared vision. That’s what keeps us sharp as a team. We build an environment where people can take risks, learn from each other, and push each other to be better every day.

13. What’s your process when developing a new dish—from concept to execution?

It usually starts with a memory, or even a visual sketch. Then I think through texture, flavor balance, and plating. From there, we workshop the dish – we test it, refine it, and make sure it tells the story we want to tell. If it doesn’t evoke something – like emotion, curiosity, nostalgia – or if it doesn’t surprise you in some way, it doesn’t make the menu.

14. How do you stay inspired and avoid creative burnout, especially when constantly pushing culinary boundaries?

Inspiration comes from travel, from collaboration, and always staying curious. I intentionally surround myself with people who challenge me creatively or those who bring new perspectives or experiences. But I also find it’s important to reconnect with the reasons I started cooking in the first place. When I come back to that core purpose, it grounds me and keeps the energy fresh.

15. Indienne earned a Michelin star within its first year—an incredible achievement. What did that recognition mean to you personally and professionally?

It meant so much – not only to me, but to my team, and for Indian cuisine in general. Of course, it’s the kind of recognition that so many chefs dream of and to receive it within our first year at Indienne was surreal. But it was also validation for the team that worked tirelessly behind the scenes. It affirmed that we could stay true to our roots and still innovate… that we didn’t have to compromise flavor or culture to be considered world-class. It signals that there’s space at the table for our traditions and our stories and that’s what’s really important.

16. How do you manage the pressure of maintaining excellence while continuing to innovate?

We stay grounded in the basics – hospitality, consistency, and purpose. At the end of the day, innovation is only meaningful if your foundation is strong. It’s easy to get caught up in the pressure, but it’s better to use it as fuel. It keeps us focused.

17. What advice would you give to young chefs who want to elevate traditional cuisines through a modern lens?

Start with the roots. Before you reinterpret anything, take the time to understand where it comes from – the culture, the ingredients, the people behind the food. Cook the dishes the way they’ve been cooked for generations. That’s the only way to build a foundation that’s strong enough to carry innovation. Once you have that understanding, don’t be afraid! But innovate with purpose. When you lead with authenticity and respect, you’ll find your confidence.

Before you reinterpret anything, take the time to understand where it comes from – the culture, the ingredients, the people behind the food.

18. Do you have a favorite Indian ingredient that you find yourself returning to time and again—either for its flavor, versatility, or emotional connection?

Tamarind. It’s bold, complex, and endlessly versatile. Whether it’s used in a chutney or a curry, it brings brightness and balance. It has this layered personality that makes a dish feel alive.

19. What’s your go-to comfort food when you’re off the clock? Is there a dish from your childhood that still holds a special place in your heart?

Definitely khichdi with ghee and fried eggplant. It’s as humble as it gets, but that’s the beauty of it. It’s soulful, nourishing, and it reminds me of home. No matter where I am in the world, that’s my reset button.

20. What’s next for you—are there new concepts, flavors, or collaborations you’re excited to explore?

I just opened Nadu in Chicago, which explores bold, regional flavors in a more casual yet still progressive format. I also recently spent some time in Mexico City, working with local chefs and doing a collaborative pop-up at Indienne. Those experiences really opened up my eyes to how Indian and Mexican cuisines are similar in so many ways, so I’m interested in exploring how those intersections can evolve naturally. Beyond that, I’m looking to conceptualize a book – and, of course, I’m looking ahead to future restaurant projects, always with the goal of expanding thoughtfully.

21. Where do you see the evolution of Indian fine dining headed in the next 5–10 years, both in the U.S. and globally?

I think we’re going to see more regional diversity, more personal storytelling, and more global recognition. Indian cuisine is stepping into a new era – where it’s not just accepted, it’s celebrated at the highest level. And this is just the beginning!

Paneer Katli
Paneer Katli by Chef Sujan Sarkar; Photo Credit Neil John Burger.

Chef Sujan Sarkar
Instagram
Indienne Restaurant
Paneer Katli recipe by Chef Sujan Sarkar

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Chef of the Week: Chef Eric Wolitzky, Baking with Heart and Heritage https://www.chefspencil.com/chef-of-the-week-chef-eric-wolitzky-baking-with-heart-and-heritage/ https://www.chefspencil.com/chef-of-the-week-chef-eric-wolitzky-baking-with-heart-and-heritage/#respond Mon, 14 Jul 2025 12:45:21 +0000 https://www.chefspencil.com/?p=115463 For Eric Wolitzky, baking wasn’t just a career choice — it was a legacy waiting to be embraced. Growing up in a family of New York bakers, his earliest memories are sweet and sentimental: cream puffs on his mother’s lap and holiday tables overflowing with homemade cakes. Though he initially pursued the arts with degrees...

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For Eric Wolitzky, baking wasn’t just a career choice — it was a legacy waiting to be embraced. Growing up in a family of New York bakers, his earliest memories are sweet and sentimental: cream puffs on his mother’s lap and holiday tables overflowing with homemade cakes. Though he initially pursued the arts with degrees from NYU, the pull of the pastry kitchen proved irresistible.

Today, as Executive Pastry Chef for Fifth Group Restaurants in Atlanta, Eric brings a deeply personal, flavor-first philosophy to the table — one grounded in balance, nostalgia, and the traditions of European cafés. From humble banana pudding to a reimagined Austrian Bee Sting Cake, his desserts bridge the comforting and the creative, always with an eye on seasonality and soul.

Whether he’s leading teams across multiple restaurant concepts, obsessing over a single sponge recipe, or quietly championing old-world pastry technique in a world driven by trends, Eric’s approach is as thoughtful as it is delicious.

1. What first drew you to baking and pastry arts? Was there a formative moment or influence that set you on this path?

I come from a long line of New York bakers and began working in bakeries in my teens. But for a long time, I resisted that path. I earned a BFA and MA from NYU and genuinely tried to do everything else. Still, the pastry bug wouldn’t let go — it was definitely in my blood. My earliest memory is sitting on my mother’s lap eating a giant cream puff. Our holiday tables were filled with comforting, homemade cakes. That emotional connection to baking stuck with me.

2. Did you always know you wanted to focus on pastry, or did that passion develop over time?

I originally wanted to be an actor or writer, but I craved more immediate creative satisfaction than art could offer me. Pastry provided that outlet. I could walk into a kitchen and create something beautiful, expressive, and delicious that same day. That sense of immediacy was incredibly appealing and eventually led me to pursue a culinary degree.

3. You’re a graduate of the French Culinary Institute… How important is culinary school for success in pastry?

If you’re a pastry nerd like me, and you fantasize about learning as many techniques as possible, then culinary school can be a dream. I made friends for life there. But I don’t think it’s essential for success today. A formal education won’t necessarily get you a job. What matters more is working under the right chefs who are willing to teach and mentor. You can learn so much on the job if you’re hungry for it.

My team is everything. Their growth, creativity, and curiosity are at the core of how I lead. I care deeply about their education — not just in technique, but in building confidence, and voice. I strive for them to experiment, speak up, and get better every day. Watching someone step into their own as a pastry chef — there’s nothing more rewarding. 

4. You’ve worked in both high-end restaurants and on television. How have those experiences shaped your approach to dessert?

Both environments taught me how to create in the moment, using whatever resources are available. You learn to trust your instincts, act fast, and pull from your own inspirations — something more internal. That mindset actually goes back to my NYU days: technique comes first, but then you must draw from personal experience to make something meaningful. My love for pastry was never about sugar art or chocolate sculptures. It was always about home, hearth, and a connection to European roots.

5. As Executive Pastry Chef for Fifth Group Restaurants, how do you approach dessert development across multiple concepts?

Each restaurant starts with a clear identity. We define the cuisine, the region, and then go deeper. For example, Lure is coastal seafood, but the desserts explore tropical flavors and whimsical touches. Once I have that framework, I know what sandbox I’m playing in.

Just as important: I always consider what’s possible in each unit. What’s the budget? What tools are on hand? Who’s plating the dessert? Who’s making it? What will they connect with? These factors are often overlooked, but they’re critical to creating something that works and lasts.

6. Are there any desserts that have become runaway hits across multiple restaurants?

Definitely. That ties back to understanding your city. Atlanta diners aren’t the same as New York diners. People respond to desserts that trigger childhood memories or cultural comfort. We sell a lot of banana pudding and cheesecake. But some surprises have been big hits too:

  • My Southern Angel Pie — layers of pate brisee, caramel, meringue, chocolate mousse, and whipped cream
  • Boccone Dolce at La Tavola — a giant brown sugar meringue filled with curd, seasonal sorbet, and white chocolate whipped ganache
Boccone Dolce at La Tavola | Photo Credit: La Tavola

7. Have you ever created a dessert you thought would be niche, but it became a guest favorite?

Yes! The Bee Sting Cake at Ecco. German and Austrian pastries are a personal obsession of mine. They aren’t overly sweet, they have history, and they aren’t overly fussy.

Traditionally, Bee Sting Cake is brioche filled with cream and topped with an almond crown. I reimagined it with sponge cake soaked in a lavender honey syrup, Bavarian cream, white wine caramel, and almond Florentine. It’s familiar and comforting, but also fresh and intriguing. It really took off.

Bee Sting Cake featuring Meyer lemon curd, Bavarian cream, fresh mandarins and a heavenly honey lavender soak served at Ecco Midtown

8. How would you describe your dessert philosophy?

At heart, I’ll always be a baker, even though I’ve worked primarily as a pastry chef. My inspiration comes from family, nostalgia, and the coffee houses of Vienna. I’m always chasing flavor first. I usually begin a new dessert with one star component and obsessively test it until it’s just right. Then I build the rest around it.

Balance is everything. I avoid anything too sweet. And I care deeply about seasonality. I’d change the menus more often if I could, but overseeing multiple units makes that tricky. Still, I push for seasonal touches wherever possible — even if I drive the marketing team crazy.

9. What’s your process when testing a new dish?

My pastry chefs will tell you I get a little intense during testing. I’ll make one component ten different ways if I think it could be better. But I also know when to walk away. Some of my best desserts have come together quickly, and if a dish isn’t hitting the right notes after a few tries, I move on.

10. What current dessert trends excite you, and which do you think are overhyped?

I think we rely too much on social media inspiration. It’s a fantastic jumping-off point, but it can’t replace instinct or genuine curiosity. What excites me is good old-fashioned hard work. There’s still artistry in pastry, and developing that takes time and focus. I’m more excited by someone quietly refining their technique than I am by the next viral swirl.

13. What’s one dessert you’re especially proud of?

My version of Kardinalschnitte, or Cardinal Slice. It’s traditionally alternating stripes of meringue and sponge, and I adapted it into a plated dessert: sponge and meringue layered with freeze-dried strawberry whipped cream, roasted vanilla strawberries, a rhubarb-Champagne sauce, and cardamom cake croutons. It was built to order and perfect for spring and summer.

Kardinalschnitte with Roasted Strawberries & Strawberry Cream
Kardinalschnitte with Roasted Strawberries & Strawberry Cream; Photo credit: Chef Eric Wolitzky

15. Do you have a go-to dessert you make at home?

Absolutely. My peanut butter layer cake with milk chocolate frosting. It’s nostalgic, comforting, and always a crowd-pleaser. And at home, no one seems to mind the peanuts.

Peanut Butter Cake
Peanut Butter Cake; Photo credit: Chef Eric Wolitzky

16. What advice would you give aspiring pastry chefs?

Pastry and baking as a career may be fading in some parts of the U.S., but that makes it even more important to stay committed. Don’t rely on trends. Work hard. Stay curious. And don’t play the victim when pastry isn’t valued the way it should be. Keep showing up and proving what you bring to the table.

17. Looking ahead, is there a new direction or technique you’re excited to explore?

Lately I’ve been obsessed with yeasted sweet buns and exploring ways to turn them into proper plated desserts. Does that count? Probably not. But honestly, if there’s a rabbit hole to fall down, I’ll find a way to fill it with pastry — and then test it a dozen times just to make sure it’s worth it.


Chef Eric Wolitzky
Fifth Group Restaurants
Instagram

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Chef of the Week: Daisuke Nakazawa, Sushi Nakazawa https://www.chefspencil.com/chef-of-the-week-daisuke-nakazawa-sushi-nakazawa/ https://www.chefspencil.com/chef-of-the-week-daisuke-nakazawa-sushi-nakazawa/#respond Mon, 07 Jul 2025 12:02:35 +0000 https://www.chefspencil.com/?p=115330 From humble beginnings in Tokyo to the pinnacle of New York’s fine dining scene, Chef Daisuke Nakazawa has charted a remarkable culinary journey—one that began under the legendary Jiro Ono and now continues at his acclaimed restaurant, Sushi Nakazawa. Known to many from the iconic documentary Jiro Dreams of Sushi, Nakazawa has earned a reputation...

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From humble beginnings in Tokyo to the pinnacle of New York’s fine dining scene, Chef Daisuke Nakazawa has charted a remarkable culinary journey—one that began under the legendary Jiro Ono and now continues at his acclaimed restaurant, Sushi Nakazawa. Known to many from the iconic documentary Jiro Dreams of Sushi, Nakazawa has earned a reputation for precision, humility, and a deep respect for the craft of sushi.

At Sushi Nakazawa, he has created a distinctly personal style—what he calls “NY-mae”—a refined fusion of traditional Edomae sushi tailored for the American palate. Despite the soaring popularity and exclusivity of omakase dining in the U.S., Nakazawa remains committed to accessibility, offering a Michelin-starred experience at a price point designed to welcome more diners into the world of exceptional sushi.

This week, Chef’s Pencil sat down with Chef Nakazawa to talk about his evolution as a chef, the philosophy behind his cuisine, and the lessons he hopes to pass on to the next generation of sushi masters.

1. You famously trained under the legendary Jiro Ono. What was the most valuable lesson you learned during your time at Sukiyabashi Jiro?

He taught me about perfection, discipline, how to be a sushi chef—and how to be a good person.

2. What drew you to the art of sushi specifically, and how has your understanding of it evolved since your apprenticeship days?

I was open to the idea of sushi because my best friend was going to train to become a sushi chef! I still learn something (new) every day.

3. What was the biggest challenge in transitioning from being a student in Tokyo to a head chef and owner in the U.S.?

I didn’t own a restaurant right away. After I left Japan, my family and I moved to Seattle, where I worked at a sushi restaurant. A few months later, my now co-owner, Alessandro Borgognone, reached out to me, and I came to New York to meet him. The biggest challenge was transitioning from working in a restaurant to owning one.

Restaurant Nakazawa
Photo credit: Sushi Nakazawa

4. Sushi Nakazawa is one of the most revered sushi restaurants in America. What was your vision when opening the restaurant in New York?

To make the best sushi I can and provide the best experience for our guests.

5. How do you define your style of sushi? Is it strictly Edomae, or have you made deliberate adaptations for your American audience?

I call my style NY-mae. It’s a spin on Edomae, a fusion of Edomae sushi for New Yorkers.

Nakazawa Omakase
Zensai A5 Wagyu tartare with gold Ossetra caviar, A5 Wagyu nigiri, uni and black truffles; Photo credit: Sushi Nakazawa

6. You serve a 20-course omakase. How do you decide the progression and seasonal ingredients for each service?

Our menu progresses from lighter, more delicate flavors to more intense ones. Our fish—and any additional ingredients we use—are always dictated by the seasons.

7. What do you hope diners take away from the Sushi Nakazawa experience beyond just the food itself?

That they eat each piece of sushi in one bite, and leave feeling full and having had a good time.

8. Japanese restaurants—especially omakase-style—now dominate the upper tier of New York’s fine dining scene, with nine of the city’s most expensive Michelin-starred restaurants being sushi-focused and many omakase menus priced well over $400, according to Chef’s Pencil. Yet, Sushi Nakazawa has maintained a
relatively accessible price point for a Michelin-starred experience. Why was that important to you, and how do you continue to deliver such high standards at around $160 per person?

Value is very important to me. I make sushi for everyone to enjoy, at a price point we can all feel comfortable with.

9. Sourcing ingredients—especially seafood—is critical to great sushi. How do you ensure the highest quality and authenticity in your fish and other components?

From early on, we developed relationships with fishermen, so we know and trust that the fish we serve at Sushi Nakazawa is of the highest quality.

10. Is there one particular ingredient or cut of fish that you personally enjoy working with the most? Why?

Kohada—gizzard shad—is one of the true Edomae sushi pieces. Mastering the cutting and curing process for this specific fish is always challenging and showcases the true skill of a sushi chef. It’s my favorite.

Sushi
Sushi selection; Photo credit: Sushi Nakazawa

11. How do you balance tradition with creativity? Are there elements of modern technique or fusion you allow into your repertoire?

The nigiri we offer at Sushi Nakazawa isn’t strictly traditional. I enjoy experimenting and taking suggestions—not only from our sushi chefs, but from customers as well. I learned about finger limes from a customer, and after trying one, I incorporated it into the menu.

12. How do you approach training and mentoring young sushi chefs in your kitchen? Do you replicate the strict structure you experienced in Japan?

In regards to training young sushi chefs, I train them differently than I would if I were in Japan.

13. What qualities do you look for when hiring someone to work at Sushi Nakazawa? Is formal sushi training a requirement?

No formal sushi training is required, I respect any sushi or non-sushi experience they have. What I look for is passion and people who are eager to learn the craft.

14. How do you maintain consistency and excellence across your New York and Washington, D.C. locations?

We have all of the right people in place. Whenever we open a new location, we have people from the locations that have been open for a number of years go there for training, or in some cases those people move to the new location and run them.

15. Japanese cuisine isn’t just gaining recognition—it’s becoming a dominant force in global fine dining, with a significant rise in Michelin-starred Japanese restaurants outside of Japan. What does it mean to you to be part of that global wave, and how do you see your role within it?

Being part of the global wave I try to uphold the standards of sushi in America. I feel my role now is to nurture the new generation of chefs and be a part of their success. I feel the most joy when the people who have worked for me open up their own omakase restaurant.

Madai, accented with miyoga and mizuna, finished with a tomato vinaigrette
Madai, accented with miyoga and mizuna, finished with a tomato vinaigrette; Photo credit: Restaurant Nakazawa

16. Do you feel a responsibility to represent traditional Japanese culinary values while operating in the U.S.?

No. I am fortunate for my training in Japan but what we do at Sushi Nakazawa is very different. We approach dining with a less reserved – but equally focused, Western sensibility.

17. Are there any misconceptions about sushi or omakase dining that you often encounter among Western diners?

Western diners often eat sushi in multiple bites, mixing wasabi with soy sauce, placing pickled ginger on top of the sushi piece. We encourage the opposite.

Bluefin Tuna Nigiri
Bluefin Tuna Nigiri; Photo credit: Restaurant Nakazawa

18. Outside of sushi, are there any traditional Japanese dishes you especially love—something you’d cook or order for yourself?

Menchi Katsu. It’s a ground beef and pork patty that’s deep-fried with panko and served with a fruit sauce, thinly sliced cabbage, miso soup, and a nice glass of red wine. I always have this dish on my birthday!

19. What advice would you give to young chefs who dream of mastering sushi?

Strive to be a better person every moment of every day. Make a plan, set your goals, and accomplish them—one goal at a time.

20. Do you have plans to open more restaurants—or explore new formats or regions—in the future?

Yes. We’re opening a location of Sushi Nakazawa in Los Angeles. We also launched a delivery-forward concept called Hi. Dozo in LA, in partnership with DoorDash.

Tiger Prawn (Kuruma Ebi)
Tiger Prawn (Kuruma Ebi); Photo credit: Sushi Nakazawa

Note: This interview has been lightly edited for clarity and length.

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Chef of the Week: Chef Tohru Nakamura https://www.chefspencil.com/chef-of-the-week-chef-tohru-nakamura/ https://www.chefspencil.com/chef-of-the-week-chef-tohru-nakamura/#respond Thu, 26 Jun 2025 05:47:58 +0000 https://www.chefspencil.com/?p=115398 Just recently, Tohru in der Schreiberei joined the exclusive ranks of Germany’s three-star Michelin restaurants—an extraordinary milestone for Chef Tohru Nakamura and his team. The announcement brought a wave of emotion and pride, marking the culmination of years of quiet refinement, culinary discipline, and heartfelt hospitality. Known for blending his Japanese heritage with German precision,...

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Just recently, Tohru in der Schreiberei joined the exclusive ranks of Germany’s three-star Michelin restaurants—an extraordinary milestone for Chef Tohru Nakamura and his team. The announcement brought a wave of emotion and pride, marking the culmination of years of quiet refinement, culinary discipline, and heartfelt hospitality.

Known for blending his Japanese heritage with German precision, Chef Tohru has built a deeply personal and thoughtful approach to fine dining. His food reflects a harmony of cultures—rooted in Kaiseki traditions, powered by European technique, and elevated by an unwavering attention to detail.

We spoke with Chef Tohru shortly after the star announcement to reflect on the journey that led to this moment, how his cooking philosophy has evolved, and why a Carabinero prawn dish might be the most “him” thing on the menu. From early inspiration to thoughts on sustainability, it’s a conversation full of insight, humility, and passion for the craft.

Congratulations on your incredible success with Tohru in der Schreiberei. What was your reaction when you learned Tohru in der Schreiberei had earned its third Michelin star?

Tohru Nakamura: “My initial reaction was honestly a bit of shock and overwhelming gratitude. I remember I being very emotional reading our restaurants name at the videowall. A third Michelin star is something you dream of but never presume will happen. I felt incredibly proud of my team above all – this honor was a recognition of everyone’s hard work, not just my own. It was a very humbling moment too; beyond the excitement, I felt a deep sense of responsibility to uphold the standard that this third star represents.

We’ve always focused on giving guests an unforgettable experience rather than chasing awards, so hearing we had actually achieved that third star was unbelievable and very emotional for all of us. It took a while to sink in, to be honest, but once it did, I was just filled with gratitude and motivation to keep pushing forward.”

Tohru Nakamura dish
Photo Credit: Chef Tohru Nakamura

Was there anything you consciously did differently this past year that you believe helped earn that third star?

Tohru Nakamura: “I wouldn’t say we made any drastic changes specifically to get a third star. The truth is, our philosophy remained the same as always – we kept refining every detail and pushing ourselves to improve day by day. If anything, we doubled down on consistency and quality.

For example, we paid even more attention to details, the line-up of our team – with restaurant manager Alexander Will and Maître Sommelier Christian Rainer we’ve managed to get two very important pieces to our puzzle – and fine-tuned countless small aspects of the experience – from the pacing of the tasting menu to how the kitchen and service teams coordinate – to ensure everything ran as seamlessly as possible. It was more about honing what we already do well, rather than introducing any big new idea. In essence, it’s that steady commitment to excellence and little improvements every single day that I believe paved the way for the third star, rather than one specific change or initiative.”

Tohru Nakamura and Souschef Joshua Covington
Tohru Nakamura and Souschef Joshua Covington; Photo Credit: Chef Tohru Nakamura

Your cooking style is often described as a seamless fusion of German precision and Japanese elegance. How would you define your culinary philosophy in your own words?

Tohru Nakamura: “Our culinary philosophy is really about harmony and honoring both sides of my heritage. I try to bring together the meticulous structure and discipline I learned from European fine dining with the deep appreciation for seasonality and aesthetics I get from Japanese culture.

A big inspiration for me is the traditional kaiseki approach – the thoughtful progression and balance of a multi-course meal – which I adapt in a modern way using local German and European ingredients.

At the same time, I embrace the Japanese concept of omotenashi, which is a form of wholehearted hospitality that extends beyond just the food. In practice, that means every dish and every detail in our restaurant is executed with precision but also with an aim to evoke warmth and an emotional connection. I want to marry the clean, focused flavors and techniques of Japan with the quality and clarity of German ingredients and craftsmanship.

The goal is a cuisine that feels personal and balanced: precise without being cold, and elegant without being overly elaborate. It’s about creating an experience where guests can sense both influences coming together seamlessly on the plate.”

Ozaki Wagyu, Koshihikari Rice, Eggplant, Myoga
Ozaki Wagyu, Koshihikari Rice, Eggplant, Myoga; Photo Credit: Chef Tohru Nakamura

What dish on your current menu best represents who you are as a chef—and why?

Tohru Nakamura: “It’s always hard to choose just one, but a dish that really encapsulates my style is our Carabinero red prawn course. This dish has multiple elements and layers, each prepared with a lot of care.

For instance, we make a broth from Norwegian langoustine shells and set it into a delicate jelly as a base, and we incorporate a Japanese-inspired kimisu (an egg yolk vinegar sauce) to add a gentle acidity. We also fry the prawn’s long legs in a light tempura batter to add a crispy textural element, and we prepare a rich sauce from the prawn’s shells — almost like a French-style velouté enriched with a touch of champagne — to bring depth and round out the flavors. Finally, the Carabinero prawn itself is lightly grilled over charcoal and glazed with a hint of soy sauce, giving it a subtle smoky umami.

On one plate you have Japanese techniques and seasonings (like the dashi jelly, tempura, and soy) harmonizing with European culinary elements (like the classic sauce and the use of Spanish prawns). It’s a dish that’s very meticulous and multicultural, which is exactly how I’d describe my cooking. In many ways it tells the story of my German-Japanese background through food — blending those two culinary worlds in a way that feels natural and balanced, and, most importantly, delicious for the guest.”

You’ve worked in world-renowned kitchens across Europe and Japan. Which experience most shaped your approach to fine dining?

Tohru Nakamura: “I’ve been fortunate to train in quite a few places, and each of them taught me something important. Working at Restaurant Vendôme in Germany under Chef Joachim Wissler (a three-star Michelin restaurant at that time) had a huge influence – it instilled in me a real discipline and an obsession with precision and consistency.

On the other hand, spending time in Japan, training in a traditional Tokyo kitchen, showed me a completely different side of fine dining: the value of seasonality, patience, and the almost spiritual attention to detail and hospitality that Japanese cuisine entails. I was also lucky enough to work for chef Sergio Herman at Oud Sluis, which was recognized as the best restaurant in the world at the time. In addition to all the discipline, I also learnt to let go, go with the flow and loosen up.

But if I have to single out the experience that truly set the course for me, it would be my very first internship, with Chef Léa Linster in Luxembourg, when I was a teenager. Until that point I loved cooking as a hobby, but working in Chef Linster’s Michelin-starred kitchen was eye-opening – I never imagined a fine dining kitchen could be so exciting and creative at that age. That moment was a turning point that solidified my decision to become a chef.

Each subsequent stop – whether it was in Munich, Cologne, the Netherlands or in Japan – built on that foundation. But it was that initial experience of seeing the passion and excellence in a great kitchen that really shaped my approach and made me realize this is what I wanted to devote my life to.”

Char, Kohlrabi, dandelion, Nasturtium
Char, Kohlrabi, dandelion, Nasturtium; Photo Credit: Chef Tohru Nakamura

What’s the most valuable lesson you’ve learned in the kitchen that you carry with you every day?

Tohru Nakamura: “The most valuable lesson for me is that you can always improve and you can always learn. No matter how well a service went or what accolades you’ve received, there’s always something that can be done better the next day. I often tell my team that if we can just be a touch better today than we were yesterday, then we’re on the right path. I truly believe that.

It’s a mindset of constant, incremental improvement that keeps us humble and focused. This lesson also means staying curious and open-minded – listening to your colleagues, learning from feedback, and never becoming complacent. Every day in the kitchen is a chance to refine our craft. That mentality of continuous improvement, along with respect for teamwork and fundamentals, is something I carry with me and try to instill in others around me every single day.”

Chef Tohru Nakamura
Photo Credit: Chef Tohru Nakamura

Michelin stars aside, what moment in your career has made you feel most proud or fulfilled?

Tohru Nakamura: “One of the most fulfilling moments in my career actually had nothing to do with awards or reviews. Recently, for example, together with my friend Graciela Cucchiara, who is an Italian chef, we organized a charity event where my team and I cooked very simple, homestyle food – I’m talking about dishes like lasagna and hearty stews – to support an organization that helps children with
disabilities. We stepped out of our usual fine-dining setting and just cooked comfort food for our guests, who enjoyed our soul food and did something good on top by purchasing the tickets for our event.

One of the most fulfilling moments in my career actually had nothing to do with awards or reviews.

I felt truly proud, not because of any culinary achievement in the fancy sense, but because our cooking made a positive impact on people’s lives in that moment. It reminded me of why I started cooking in the first place. That feeling of connecting with people and providing comfort or happiness through food – that’s more rewarding than any accolade. It’s a moment that stays with me and reminds me what hospitality is really about.”

What trends or shifts in the fine dining world are you most excited about—or cautious of—right now?

Tohru Nakamura: “I’m really excited about the shift toward sustainability and authenticity in fine dining. More chefs and restaurants are focusing on local, seasonal produce and paying attention to the environmental impact of what we do. I think that’s not only important but also inspiring, because it pushes us to be more creative with what’s available around us and to honor our local producers.

I’m really excited about the shift toward sustainability and authenticity in fine dining.

There’s also a trend of fine dining becoming a bit more relaxed and personal, less stiff than it used to be – chefs are bringing more of their cultural heritage into their menus and diners are embracing it. That openness and diversity in high-end cuisine is something I find very positive and energizing.

On the flip side, I am a bit cautious about the obsession with accolades and luxury that sometimes overtakes the industry. Of course awards are nice, but if everyone starts cooking for the Michelin Guide or the 50 Best list, we risk losing some sincerity. I also get wary of the “luxury for luxury’s sake” trend – dishes piled with caviar or truffle on every course just to look impressive. I always remind myself and my team not to get too caught up in how much caviar we can put on a plate. Those things are wonderful, but they should be used with purpose, not as a gimmick. So while I embrace the positive changes like sustainability and cultural exchange, I’m careful about not letting the core of what we do – making delicious food and making guests happy – get lost in the race to follow every new trend or chase rankings.“

Tohru Nakamura Dish
Sea trout with beetroot, yuzu and wasabi; Photo Credit: Chef Tohru Nakamura
Bread, Ozaki Wagyu, Yuzukosho and chanterelles
Bread, Ozaki Wagyu, Yuzukosho and chanterelles; Photo Credit: Chef Tohru Nakamura

What advice would you give to young chefs hoping to achieve excellence in the kitchen without losing their creative voice?

Tohru Nakamura: „My advice to young chefs would be to focus on building a solid foundation, but also never forget your own voice. First, really master your craft – learn the basics, learn proper techniques, understand flavor combinations, and put in the hours honing your skills. Work for the best people you can and absorb everything; every kitchen you work in will teach you something valuable if you pay
attention.

At the same time, keep your creativity alive. Don’t fall into the trap of just trying to mimic your mentors or chase trends that don’t resonate with you. Remember why you started cooking in the first place – that passion is your driving force and it’s what makes your food yours.

Also, be patient and stay humble. Excellence in this field doesn’t happen overnight; it’s a marathon, not a sprint. You have to be willing to grind and learn from every mistake. Embrace the tough days as lessons rather than let them discourage you. It’s important to find your own style, but that comes gradually, after learning the rules well enough that you understand how to bend or break them. And never stop learning – even now, I consider myself a student of cooking.

Finally, maintain your love for the craft. If you keep that genuine enthusiasm and curiosity, you’ll find ways to innovate and express yourself creatively while still achieving the highest standards. Cooking is hard work, but it should always come from the heart.“

Tohru Nakamura Dish
Photo Credit: Chef Tohru Nakamura
Petit fours
Petit Fours; Photo credit: Chef Tohru Nakamura

Quickfire: Favorite ingredient you can’t live without?

Tohru Nakamura: “I’d have to say soy sauce. It’s a simple, everyday ingredient but it carries incredible depth of flavor. Just a dash of good soy sauce can add that perfect umami balance to almost any dish. I grew up with it always in the kitchen at home, and even today I find myself reaching for soy sauce instinctively. It’s such a fundamental building block in my cooking that I’d feel lost without it.”

Leaving fine dining aside, as someone with deep roots in both Germany and Japan, what traditional dishes would you recommend every visitor try when visiting Munich—or Tokyo?

Tohru Nakamura: In Munich, I’d definitely encourage visitors to try the classic Bavarian dishes that really define the local food culture. For breakfast or brunch, have a traditional Weißwurst (Bavarian white sausage) with a freshly baked pretzel and sweet mustard – and don’t forget a Bavarian wheat beer to go with it, if you’re so inclined, since that’s the tradition.

Then later in the day, something like a hearty Schweinebraten (roast pork with dumplings and gravy) or a crispy pork knuckle with sauerkraut is a must. These are not fancy dishes at all, but they’re authentic, soul-satisfying comfort foods that truly give you a taste of Munich’s heritage. You get the gemütlichkeit – that cozy, convivial feeling – when you sit in a beer hall enjoying those dishes.

In Tokyo, I would tell any visitor to explore the everyday favorites of Japanese cuisine. For example, find a small ramen shop and enjoy a steaming bowl of ramen – it’s one of the most comforting and delicious fast foods, and each shop has its own style. Also, definitely try some sushi, but you don’t need to go to the ultra-expensive places to enjoy it. Even a neighborhood sushi counter or a standing sushi bar can offer an amazing experience of fresh, high-quality sushi where you can watch the chefs work right in front of you.

Beyond that, grab some yakitori (grilled chicken skewers) at a local izakaya pub – standing in a crowded little bar, eating skewers and sipping a drink, is a classic Tokyo experience. And if you have time, sample other traditional bites: maybe a warm bowl of soba noodles, some tempura, or even street-food snacks like takoyaki (octopus balls) if you come across them. Tokyo has such a vast food scene, but by trying those traditional everyday dishes, you’ll get an authentic feel for both the comfort and the depth of Japanese cuisine, away from the fine dining side.“

Chawanmushi, lobster, courgette and horseradish
Chawanmushi, lobster, courgette and horseradish; Photo Credit: Chef Tohru Nakamura

Chef Tohru Nakamura
Instagram
Tohru in der Schreiberei

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Chef of the Week: Chef Daeik Kim, Jungsik, New York https://www.chefspencil.com/chef-of-the-week-chef-daeik-kim-jungsik-new-york/ https://www.chefspencil.com/chef-of-the-week-chef-daeik-kim-jungsik-new-york/#respond Thu, 19 Jun 2025 13:11:37 +0000 https://www.chefspencil.com/?p=115310 At Jungsik in New York City, Chef Daeik Kim is helping define what modern Korean fine dining looks—and tastes—like in 2025. As Executive Chef of the acclaimed Tribeca restaurant, now honored with three Michelin stars, Chef Kim brings both technical precision and cultural depth to every plate. His style reflects a deeply personal evolution of...

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At Jungsik in New York City, Chef Daeik Kim is helping define what modern Korean fine dining looks—and tastes—like in 2025. As Executive Chef of the acclaimed Tribeca restaurant, now honored with three Michelin stars, Chef Kim brings both technical precision and cultural depth to every plate. His style reflects a deeply personal evolution of Korean cuisine—one that respects its roots while exploring new forms, flavors, and formats.

In this exclusive Chef’s Pencil interview, Chef Kim reflects on the meaning of “New Korean” cuisine, the creative process behind his menus, and the lessons learned from his time in both Korean and American kitchens. He also shares his thoughts on global recognition, creative growth, and the values that guide his team at one of New York’s most celebrated dining destinations.

Jungsik has redefined modern Korean cuisine in the U.S. What does “New Korean” mean to you personally and professionally?

To me, “New Korean” holds layered meaning. It represents a reinterpretation of traditional Korean cuisine by integrating new techniques, refined flavors, and innovative presentations. Like all global cuisines, Korean food continues to evolve across generations and eras. At Jungsik, we strive to bring a modern perspective to Korean cuisine, crafting dishes that respect tradition while embracing change. It’s about preserving the essence of Korean food while pushing it forward in exciting, meaningful ways.

How has the global rise of Korean culture (K-pop, film, beauty, etc.) influenced the way diners abroad experience Korean cuisine, especially in fine dining?

The global rise of Korean culture is unmistakable. Whether it’s K-pop, cinema, or skincare, Korean trends have gained tremendous international recognition, and we’ve certainly felt the impact in the culinary world.

Guests are approaching Korean cuisine with more curiosity and open-mindedness than ever before. Fine dining in particular is now seen as a compelling new lens through which Korean food can be experienced, appreciated, and respected on the global stage.

Jungsik Restaurant
Jungsik New York; Photo Credit: Jungsik

Is there a particular Korean ingredient or dish you love reinterpreting in unexpected ways? What are some misconceptions you think people still have about Korean cuisine—especially in fine dining?

These two questions go hand in hand. Traditional Korean dining is centered around “hansang charim”—a shared table filled with many dishes at once—rather than a structured course menu. Translating this style into a fine dining, course-driven format is both a creative challenge and a fascinating process.

Our goal is not to westernize Korean cuisine, but rather to present it in a new form that’s globally accessible while remaining authentic.

However, some guests still perceive this as merely adapting Korean food to Western conventions. But I believe cuisine isn’t just about ingredients or flavor—it’s also about the culture and experience behind it. Our goal is not to westernize Korean cuisine, but rather to present it in a new form that’s globally accessible while remaining authentic. Sharing Korean food in this new context is both our mission and our responsibility.

Jungsik Restaurant
Photo Credit: Jungsik

Can you walk us through how a new dish comes to life at Jungsik—from concept to the final plate?

Each dish has its own story and creative path. Sometimes inspiration comes from comforting everyday Korean meals, while other times it arises from traditional recipes that we reinterpret using modern techniques and seasonal ingredients. Regardless of the starting point, the goal is always to create something that feels original yet grounded in Korean identity.

Do you have a current favorite dish on the menu that best captures your personal style as a chef?

It’s very difficult to choose just one. Every dish on the menu is crafted with care and meaning, and each represents a different part of our journey and philosophy.

How has training in both Korea and the U.S. shaped your leadership style?

There are certainly cultural and structural differences between Korean and American kitchens. However, at the end of the day, a kitchen is a kitchen. What matters most is fostering mutual respect, high standards, and consistency—regardless of geography.

Was formal culinary education at the CIA worthwhile, and how did it shape your approach?

I attended the Culinary Institute of America after working in professional kitchens in Korea for about a decade. For me, it was an opportunity to step into a new environment, revisit the foundations, and expand my perspective.

It was incredibly valuable to formally learn and refine the fundamentals across multiple disciplines. But ultimately, the value of any experience depends on how committed you are to making the most of it. Education is only as meaningful as the effort you put into it.

What values do you try to instill in your team at Jungsik’s kitchen every day?

The two core values I constantly emphasize are fundamentals and mindset. Technical skill is important, but without a solid foundation, it’s like building a sandcastle. When the basics are strong, anything is possible.

Mindset, too, is essential. In a demanding kitchen environment, it’s easy to compromise—but excellence requires discipline. A true chef must carry the drive to pursue perfection, even when no one is watching.

What’s one lesson from Chef Yim that has stuck with you since joining Jungsik?

Chef Yim has taught me many things, but one that remains deeply ingrained is his spirit of fearless innovation. He’s never afraid to take risks or explore uncharted territory. That mindset—of challenging boundaries and daring to be different—is something I’ve carried with me as a chef and a leader.

What did it mean to you when Jungsik NYC earned its third Michelin star?

It was both an incredible honor and a tremendous responsibility. Of course, it was a moment of joy and pride, but it also reminded us that excellence is a journey, not a destination.

Our approach hasn’t changed—we continue to push ourselves, day after day, with the same determination and passion we’ve always had.

Strawberry Jasmine Pudding, black pepper sable and mixed berry sorbet @ Jungsik Restaurant
Strawberry Jasmine Pudding, Black Pepper Sable & Mixed Berry Sorbet; Photo Credit: Jungsik

What do you think accounts for the difference between Jungsik NYC and the Seoul location?

I don’t believe the difference in stars reflects superiority. Both locations share the same DNA and philosophy, but New York—being a city of immense diversity and innovation—may naturally highlight our unique identity as a modern Korean fine dining restaurant. The environment plays a role in how the concept is perceived and received.

How do you stay creatively hungry after reaching such a high level of recognition?

I don’t view awards or accolades as endpoints. I see creativity not as a gift, but as the result of relentless effort and a willingness to fail. Growth only comes when you step outside your comfort zone. If you avoid discomfort or fear failure, innovation becomes impossible.

That’s why I keep challenging myself—and my team—to stay uncomfortable and keep evolving.

Striped Jack. Served with Baek Kimchi, Soy Marinated Dashima, Licorice Lace, and Oscietre Caviar @ Jungsik Restaurant
Striped Jack with Baek Kimchi, Soy Marinated Dashima, Licorice Lace, and Oscietre Caviar; Photo credit: Daeik Kim

What inspired you to become a chef in the first place?

Growing up, both of my parents worked, so I often cooked for myself at home. I also loved cooking with them whenever we had the chance. Cooking brought me joy—and seeing others enjoy my food made me even happier.

That feeling sparked a dream: to one day become someone who creates the best food in the world.

That feeling sparked a dream: to one day become someone who creates the best food in the world. I’m still working toward that goal and have a long way to go, but I have no intention of stopping.

Nakji-Bokkeum Dish @ Jungsik Restaurant
Spicy stir-fried octopus; Photo Credit: Jungsik

What’s a dish from your childhood that you still think about or draw inspiration from?

Many of the dishes my mother used to make still come to mind often. They remind me where I come from and what food really means at its core—comfort, love, and memory.

After a long day in the kitchen, what’s your go-to comfort meal at home?

To be honest, I don’t cook much at home. After long hours in the kitchen, I’m usually exhausted—and I’m incredibly grateful to my wife, who always prepares warm and comforting meals for me. Her cooking is what brings me back to life after a tough day.

What advice would you give to a young chef—especially one from Korea—dreaming of leading a world-class kitchen abroad?

Being a chef may look glamorous from the outside, but it’s an incredibly demanding career. If you don’t truly love cooking, this path isn’t for you. But if you do choose it, never stop learning, challenging yourself, and growing. Perseverance and curiosity are the keys to building something extraordinary.

Arctic Char cured with ginger citrus and herbs
Arctic Char with Ginger, Citrus, and Herbs; Photo Credit: Daeik Kim

Chef Daeik Kim
Instagram
Jungsik New York

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Chef of the Month: Chef Fatih Tutak https://www.chefspencil.com/interview-chef-fatih-tutak/ https://www.chefspencil.com/interview-chef-fatih-tutak/#respond Mon, 24 Jun 2024 06:26:57 +0000 https://www.chefspencil.com/?p=102308 We’re delighted to feature Chef Fatih Tutak on Chef’s Pencil. He is the head chef and owner of TURK, the highest-rated Michelin restaurant in Türkiye. Following his extensive career, which spanned six countries and included stints at some of the best restaurants in the world (including Noma, The Dining Room of The House of Sathorn,...

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We’re delighted to feature Chef Fatih Tutak on Chef’s Pencil. He is the head chef and owner of TURK, the highest-rated Michelin restaurant in Türkiye. Following his extensive career, which spanned six countries and included stints at some of the best restaurants in the world (including Noma, The Dining Room of The House of Sathorn, and Nihonryori Ryugin), Chef Fatih Tutak returned home to open Türkiye’s top restaurant.

1. What inspired you to become a chef?

My passion for gastronomy started at a young age. I would watch my mother cook and go with her to our local market to buy ingredients. Once I started copying what she did in the kitchen, I was hooked.

It was a clear choice for me to go to culinary school. I then developed my technical skills, personal style, and palate while I travelled and worked throughout Asia and encountered an exciting mix of cultures.

2. Tell us a bit about your work at TURK. What’s the concept and what’s the inspiration for this season’s menu?

TURK has been my homecoming. After spending many years away from Türkiye, I decided that I needed to return to my roots and reconnect with the cuisine and culture of my country. We are pioneering a ‘New Turkish Cuisine’. With research into gastronomic traditions, we create dishes that look to the past so we can push into the future. For example, tarhana is a type of soup base unique to Turkish cuisine.

It is made by fermenting and drying peppers, tomatoes, yogurt, flour, and legumes. It is a technique that has been used for centuries and, at TURK, we apply it to alternative produce such as wild mushrooms.

This takes the flavor profile of the product to the maximum level, producing a deep umami paste that can be used as a seasoning rather than as a soup. There is a sense of the familiar that is always paired with the unexpected.

3. TURK is the only restaurant in Türkiye to have received two Michelin stars and has been named the best restaurant in Türkiye several times. What did that mean to you, and what keeps you motivated?

It’s a great honor. I am incredibly proud of my team for this achievement. TURK has brought Turkish cuisine to the international stage. We are always pushing for more, and to do this I have to challenge myself to create something new every day. By researching and staying curious about different techniques and ways to use produce, I can push my creativity further.

4. What role do cultural heritage and storytelling play in your cooking?

Turkish cuisine tells the story of our nation. Often I use ingredients that have fallen out of favor such as a dry-aged native duck, which comes from recipes of the Ottoman Empire. At TURK we dive into tradition and reintroduce the past to our guests to show the evolution of Turkish gastronomy.

Aegean baby squid, rice and garlic by Chef Fatih Tutak
Aegean baby squid with rice and garlic; Photo credit: Chef Fatih Tutak (@turkfatihtutak)

5. Do you have a signature dish?

Our menu is always changing with the seasons so it is hard to choose a signature dish. However, a dish I created which means a lot to me is ‘For My Mom’. It is a version of my mother’s manti, a type of Turkish dumpling.

Not only did I love it as a child, but the first time I made it as a chef was for a guest in Singapore and their emotional reaction to the nostalgic flavors encouraged me to move back to Türkiye to cook the food of my people.

6. You’ve spent a great part of your career in Asia. What is the biggest difference between the fine-dining scene in Asia compared to Europe?

Like many chefs, I spent a large part of my youth travelling and learning, mostly in Asia. It is a very exciting continent, the variation in cultures and cuisines is inspiring. I lived for a while in Qingdao (a city in Shandong Province) where the cuisine is very light, uses small quantities of oil, and focuses on fresh seafood and vegetables.

In contrast, Thailand is totally rock and roll, from the spices to the pure strength of the flavors they use, the food just punches you in the face.

Mackerel, tire eggplant, oscietra caviar, ebru; Dish by Chef Fatih Tutak;

7. What’s the best meal you’ve ever had?

Probably my last visit to the UK. The highlight was dining at The Fat Duck in Bray. The entire experience of this restaurant was mind-blowing.

8. What’s a must-try traditional Turkish dish that everyone should try when visiting Türkiye?

When walking through Istanbul, try stuffed mussels. They are typical street food, and vendors selling them are everywhere. Mussels are stuffed with aromatic and spiced rice and paired with a glass of beer.

We have our own version at TURK, Mussel Dolma, embedded between two edible mussel shells. And some of my favorite restaurants for traditional Turkish food are: Kiyi Restaurant for mezze and seafood or Adana Ocakbasi Kurtulus for Ocakbasi Kebap.

9. What is the most underrated food destination?

The Xinjiang province in China. The cuisine in the city of Kasghar is an undiscovered goldmine.

Mussel Dolma
Mussels Dolma, Photo credit: Chef Fatih Tutak

Restaurant: TURK by Fatih Tutak
Instagram: @fatih_tutak

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Student Life Series: Ismail Haggag, Le Cordon Bleu, Madrid, Spain https://www.chefspencil.com/student-life-series-ismail-haggag-le-cordon-bleu/ Wed, 02 Jun 2021 19:30:52 +0000 https://www.chefspencil.com/?p=26122 We’re continuing our student life series with Ismail Haggag, a talented Egyptian who is currently studying at Le Cordon Bleu in Madrid, Spain. Let’s hear it from Ismail. 1. Please tell us a bit about yourself and your passion for food.  I’m from Egypt. I’m 32 years old and right now I live in Spain with...

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We’re continuing our student life series with Ismail Haggag, a talented Egyptian who is currently studying at Le Cordon Bleu in Madrid, Spain.

Let’s hear it from Ismail.

1. Please tell us a bit about yourself and your passion for food. 

I’m from Egypt. I’m 32 years old and right now I live in Spain with my wife, who’s Spanish, and we’re both attending Le Cordon Bleu together.

My passion for food started from a young age as I used to spend time in the kitchen with my grandmothers and grand aunts, watching them cook and learning from them. I moved to the States on my own when I was 15 years old and lived there for a few years through high school and university.

There, I was introduced to the different cuisines of the world and my knowledge of food broadened. In my 20s, I moved to Dubai and worked in a corporate job for 10 years. While I was there, I was introduced to the concept of fine and modern dinning, which I learned to love too.

I’ve also traveled around a bit to different parts of the world and my main thing was always to try as much new food as I could in all those places.

2. Why did you choose the Le Cordon Bleu (Madrid) and what course are you taking? 

Well, we decided to move to Spain from Dubai more than a year ago. We asked around about the schools here and talked to some people who had attended the school, so that’s when we decided to join Le Cordon Bleu, one of the best culinary schools in the world.

I’ve always had this fantasy or dream of attending a culinary school, but I’ve always thought of it as just a dream until it actually happened.

I’m taking the French cuisine course.

3. What was your criteria for choosing a culinary school? 

I really didn’t have any criteria, but I knew that at this school I would get to focus on techniques and start from the basics of cooking and food in general.

4. What was your cooking experience before entering the program? 

I didn’t have any professional or learning experience before school.

I didn’t have any professional or learning experience before school. I simply did amateur cooking at home and for friends and family while bragging about how well I cook, even though I knew that I really knew nothing much about it.

But at the same time and I had a passion for always trying something new and different and experimenting in the kitchen as much as I could. Wherever I travelled, though, I’d always go to a local cooking class.

5. What are some of the things you wish you had known before attending the culinary school? 

I wish I had known that I had the courage to follow my passion and had attend a culinary school maybe 10 years ago.

6. How is the experience so far? 

The experience is far beyond my expectations. I’m loving every minute of my demo and practical classes. I’m learning so much and seeing a lot of improvement in my cooking, which is giving me confidence in myself. My passion for food and cooking is up another level now that I’m actually learning, and finding out what I’m capable of doing.

I’m loving every minute of my demo and practical classes.

Roasted stuffed chicken with cranberry sauce (Stuffing herbed rice, hazelnuts and rasins)
Roasted stuffed chicken with cranberry sauce (Stuffing herbed rice, hazelnuts and rasins)

7. How would you rate the working atmosphere where 1) is highly stressful and 10) is relaxed and fun? 

I’d give it a 9/10. The atmosphere is very friendly and fun and the relationship with the rest of the colleagues is amazing as I’ve developed new friendships and we’re always trying to help and learn from each other in the kitchen.

The only times it gets stressful is when you’re struggling a bit with new techniques or cooking methods and I get frustrated or overwhelmed sometimes by the amount of information we have to learn. But that’s for me to handle. 

8. What’s the most surprising thing you’ve learned so far? 

Many different things, but the most I’m impressed with is how to make sauces. Also, I’m enjoying learning how to debone, fillet, and cut fish, meat, poultry, and game. 

9. Tell us a bit about your career goals. What are your goals and aspirations? 

Once I’m done with school, I’d love to work in restaurants for a few years to get as much experience as I can get and learn. Then the ultimate goal is to one day be able to have my own restaurant, once I’m confident enough that I can offer something special.

10. Who’s your favorite chef?

I honestly don’t have a favorite chef yet as I’m yet to try food from famous chefs around the world. But from what I’ve watched of documentaries and food programs, I like the works of many like Grant Achatz and Albert Adrià. I also like Gordon Ramsey.

11. What is the best meal you’ve ever had?

That’s a tough one and almost impossible to answer, as I have favorite meals from different experiences in different countries and restaurants around the world. But if I really had to choose that one dish that I almost constantly crave, it would have to be Egyptian stuffed pigeon with spiced rice.

12. What is your favorite ingredient?

Well I’m a huge fan of rice and I really love mixing rice with almost anything I can and trying new spices with it, and new cooking methods, whether it’s as simple as white rice accompanying dishes or using it as stuffing for meats or vegetables or as paella or Jambalaya.

13. What are the top 3 dishes you are the most proud of so far?

So far: oxtail empanadas (recipe link here), Egyptian pumpkin bechamel pie, and shrimp and chorizo stew. 

Oxtail Empanadas with side chimichurri sauce
Pumpkin bechamel with nuts mix and coconut (A very traditional egyptian dessert called Kar Assal)
Pumpkin bechamel with a mix of nuts and coconut (a very traditional Egyptian dessert called Kar Assal)

But I know that in a few months, those will definitely change as I have a lot of dishes that I plan on making.

14. What cuisine, besides French, would you really like to master and why? 

I definitely want to learn more about the cuisine of my origins, Egyptian. I want to apply the techniques I’ve learned from school and also to fuse Egyptian cuisine with other cuisines.


Check out Ismail’s Instagram account for some of his latest culinary creations.

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Student Life Series: Chef Mihai Rat, B.H.M.S. Switzerland https://www.chefspencil.com/student-life-series-chef-mihai-rat-b-h-m-s-switzerland/ https://www.chefspencil.com/student-life-series-chef-mihai-rat-b-h-m-s-switzerland/#respond Mon, 30 Nov 2020 13:36:54 +0000 https://www.chefspencil.com/?p=22205 We’re continuing our student life series with Mihai Rat, a Romanian chef who has graduated the famed B.H.M.S., of the best culinary schools in Switzerland. Mihai is currently residing in London, UK and is looking to start his first pastry business. Let’s hear it from Mihai. Please tell us a bit about yourself and your...

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We’re continuing our student life series with Mihai Rat, a Romanian chef who has graduated the famed B.H.M.S., of the best culinary schools in Switzerland.

Mihai is currently residing in London, UK and is looking to start his first pastry business. Let’s hear it from Mihai.

Please tell us a bit about yourself and your passion for food.

My name is Mihai Andrei Rat and I love cooking more than anything in the world. I have lots of different passions from sports, such as basketball, swimming, mountaineering, to gardening and architecture.

I’ve always liked cooking, but I would say I became truly passionate about it in my second year of college.

I started out in the kitchen at a very young age, just 5 years old, helping my mother and grandmother with whatever necessary.  Over the years, I developed my own cooking style, trying out recipes, but I didn’t quite have the techniques for creating beautiful, tasty dishes.

In my second year in college, I wanted to make some money on the side so I  got a job at a vegan restaurant in Timisoara, a city in western Romania. I was hooked from the get-go and felt incredibly happy that I had stumbled upon this job.

Then came years of hard work, long hours, leg pain, days of doubt, tears, and beer at the end of the work day. My passion has now become a work, lifestyle, and therapy.

Why did you choose BHMS and what line of course did you attend?

It was July 2018 and I was in Cluj-Napoca, a city in the heart of Transylvania, working at a local restaurant (i.e. Livada). It’s a big restaurant and the kitchen was like a pirate ship. The chefs working there at the time were a bit crazy and obnoxious and the atmosphere in the kitchen was terrible. At the end of the month, I decided this was not a place for me.

I then decided to get my culinary education and searched for a school abroad to get out of my comfort zone. I turned to Google and my first option was BHMS. I was contacted by a school representative, who explained everything about the classes, tuition fees, and documents and soon enough I was on my way to Switzerland.

I chose to study Post Graduate Culinary arts, which lasted 1 year: 6 months of study and 6 months of internship.

What cooking experience did you have before entering the program?

Before studying, my culinary experience was beautiful, interesting but chaotic. I jumped from one workplace to another and changed jobs on a whim.

The truth was that I was scared of the work itself, the inevitable kitchen quarrels and other responsibilities in the kitchen. All I wanted was to do fine dining, without having the required experience and know how. Needless to say that was an impossible task.

It was a beautiful experience because I had the chance to work with some incredible chefs and people who taught me more than just simple recipes. They taught me about responsibility, dedication to work, and how to stay cool at times of pressure.

I got taught many interesting things, but two chefs made a lasting impression on me. One of them was the Chef at L ‘alchimiste, a restaurant in Cluj-Napoca, who taught me to be calm, calculated, and to approach the food with seriousness and delicacy.

The second one was Serghei Macovei (operations manager at Livada), who in spite of being incredibly though on me, has made me develop into the chef that I am today.

How was your experience at the school?

I could characterize my experience at BHMS as an extraordinarily constructive one. Besides the meticulous classes, hard exams, and severe teachers, there were so many great activities, fantastic internships, and work opportunities all over the world.

It’s a place where your teachers can become friends and school colleagues your family. If you want to get deeply involved in school activities, you will be appreciated and rewarded for it. Because I volunteered a lot at the school restaurant, I had the chance to work every weekend in Zurich at the Kameha Hotel, making some extra cash.

This allowed me to study in Switzerland, but also to visit the beautiful country with the money earned during some of the weekend shifts. I had the chance to meet many different people and see some amazing places.

How would you rate the working atmosphere where 1) is highly stressful and 10) is relaxed and fun?

I would give it a 6, as from my point of view, if you study hard at a top culinary institution, the atmosphere and people will tend to be become more relaxed than they perhaps appear to be.

It is true that the teachers were very demanding, they always wore a business suit at the table and at classes and used a formal, academic language, but they were understanding with the students that were passionate and highly involved.

I personally enjoyed it and developed some great connections with my teachers.

What’s the most surprising thing you learned there?

In the Contemporary Cuisine class we had to think outside the box. We had to approach ingredients in a new and surprising way, reinvent classic recipes and turn vegetables into foams, emulsions, or essences. I was impressed by the way we managed to combine ingredients, spices, and cooking techniques.

Tell us a bit about your work after graduating and your next goals?

After graduation, I returned to Romania for a short vacation and then I got my first post-graduation job at a restaurant in an upbeat neighborhood in Aarhus, Denmark. I hated it.

We were four people in the kitchen, plus the (crazy) chef. Organization was poor and it was very chaotic. I got yelled a lot and got very frustrated, although I can thank the sous chef for being kind and teaching me a lot of things.  

After a while I decided to return home to Baia Mare and I got a job at a local place dubbed the Buffet. It is a brewery run by an old friend of mine with a simple and light menu.

I evolved a lot during my time at the Buffet. I was the sous chef, had to cook all the dishes, keep an eye on the kitchen staff, do the plating, organize the orders, and even washing the dishes.

Now I have moved to London, UK, where I plan to open a small pastry business.

Who’s your favorite chef?

I have two or three favorite chefs. Chef Alex Atala from Brazil is a hero to me because from a punker he transitioned to an extraordinary father and a phenomenal cook. Considered a titan of the kitchen, Alex Atala succeeded by his actions to save enormously large parts of the Amazon jungle simply because he discovered tribes and different species of chili peppers and herbs.

Another chef would be Sean Brock from Virginia in America. I adore this man because he knows the garden and his surroundings better than anyone I know. I really like him and his conceptual because he discovers long-lost recipes and ingredients of Virginia and adapts them to the requirements of today’s cuisine.

He exploits food so much that he takes it to an unprecedented level. Another favorite chef of mine is Alain Passard, who owns the restaurant L’arpege, one of the most expensive restaurants in Paris, France. For me this man is a hero for the simple fact that he always comes out of his comfort zone.

By this I mean that his restaurant currently has 3 Michelin stars and serves only vegetable dishes. Before making this decision, it served meat dishes. Of course he didn’t completely give up meat, fish, or seafood, but 90% of his menu is made up of vegetables. When he made this decision, people were outraged. Some stopped going there but he stayed on top and still owns the 3 stars. He’s a kitchen god.

What is your favorite ingredient?

I don’t have a favorite ingredient. This month, for example, I really like thyme, but next month I might be obsessed with sesame oil and then I dream of dishes that contain sumak or basil.

But perhaps flour is my soul ingredient, because I love pastry, especially French baguettes. I really like working with flour and yeast. I like the idea of ​​working with an ingredient that is alive, like dough, that’s why I dream of my own shop selling unusual baguettes.

What cuisines would you really like to master and why

I would like to develop my know how of Indian and Asian cuisines. I love strong spices and I find myself at home in these cuisines. I love these cuisines because they resemble who I am as person: I have a strong personality, can be very volcanic (i.e. spicy) at times, but I can be also very calm, true to these cuisines.

I really want to know these cuisines because at some point I would like to mix them in Romanian cuisine.


Check out our latest report on the top culinary schools in Europe, as well as our interview with Maxime Rodrigue, student at the Paul Bocuse Institute in Lyon.

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Chef of the Week: Pastry Chef Ruchit Harneja, Musaafer, Houston, TX https://www.chefspencil.com/chef-of-the-week-ruchit-harneja/ Wed, 18 Nov 2020 19:03:48 +0000 https://www.chefspencil.com/?p=21820 We are very excited to showcase this week Ruchit Harneja, a super-talented Indian chef who has wowed us over and over again with his incredible creations. Ruchit is Pastry Chef at Musaafer, a massive, show-stopping neo-Indian restaurant in Houston, featuring seven unique dining areas and a lot of glam. But the real attraction of Musaafer...

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We are very excited to showcase this week Ruchit Harneja, a super-talented Indian chef who has wowed us over and over again with his incredible creations.

Ruchit is Pastry Chef at Musaafer, a massive, show-stopping neo-Indian restaurant in Houston, featuring seven unique dining areas and a lot of glam. But the real attraction of Musaafer is (obviously) the food, presented in an equally lavish fashion.

Let’s hear it from Ruchit.

1. What inspired you to become a pastry chef?

Ever since the day I stepped into the culinary field, I had a constant hunger in me to explore and experiment the nature of ingredients and cooking styles. 

All this gave me an opportunity to challenge myself at every stage to strive for better, which created a place for me on the gastronomy path. 

I started my culinary journey from Japanese cuisine at one of the India’s finest Modern Japanese restaurant, Wasabi by Morimoto, where I used to be a teppanyaki chef. But inside me, I always had an inclination toward pastry arts, which is a different world in itself. It is all about meticulous art, creatively balancing flavors, and skill-based techniques.

I have been diligently working to eradicate the misconception which says eating desserts is unhealthy.

Ever since then, I have been diligently working to eradicate the misconception which says eating desserts is unhealthy. Through all my desserts, I have always said that eating sweets “in moderation” after your meal always aids digestion.

It is scientifically proven that eating sweets triggers the release of saliva, which loosens stomach muscles to make the food we’ve eaten settle easily.

Chef Ruchit Harneja

2. Where did you train to cook?

I am a graduate of Institute of Hotel Management, Bangalore. I began my career with the Taj group of hotels as a trainee chef, where I took over the pastry operations of the Taj Mahal Hotel, New Delhi.

Prior to joining Musaafer by the Spice, I worked as a sous chef at Andaz Delhi – A concept by Hyatt.

An avid traveler, I have travelled across the world to take master classes with some of the world’s most renowned pastry chefs – Chef Antonio Bachour, Chef Carles Mampel, Chef Marike van Beurden to name a few.

I have also travelled to France and Belgium to undergo extensive training on chocolate arts; to Italy to learn the art of ice cream, gelato, and frozen desserts; and to Spain to study the deep science of molecular gastro art at SOSA Spain.

Following in the footsteps of Chef Mayank Istwal, I also embarked on a culinary journey throughout India to explore varied Indian desserts and pastries and learn ancient and traditional recipes from each region.

The knowledge I gathered from this journey has not only added depth to my expertise, but also to the dessert menu at Musaafer.

3. Tell us about your work at the Musaafer? How would you describe your desserts and style?

At Musaafer, we promote intense brainstorming within the team for each and every dish which comes out on the menu. Our menu changes every season, depending on the seasonal produce, health aspects, authenticity, and soul of the dish.

With my style of desserts, I always make sure to control the amount of sugar and carbohydrate level and also to incorporate appropriate digestive spices like fennel, caraway, ginger, anise, etc, which turns out to be beneficial in terms of health.

Payasam
Payasam

Spices have been fostered in Indian cuisine since ancient times and I’m extremely zealous to assimilate my own spice blends, differentiating them by their cooling, warming, baking, and digestive nature. Each and every spice blend has a different note and reaction when it comes to pairing with ingredients and cooking technique.  

I’m doing thorough research on the nature of spices along with Chef Mayank Istwal and so far we’ve become very notorious for our unique style of incorporating our phenomenal and unusual spice blends in desserts. 

In my opinion, the latest trend I see is to go heterodox. I work a lot beyond the food pairing parameters and most of the time succeed with my experiments on the concept of negative food pairing in desserts. For example, pairing ingredients like fresh green chilies with Indian desserts is something for which the orthodox side of food pairing would always be against. You’ll find such “Not to do” food pairings in a lot of my desserts in the most entrancing way.

4. What’s the most popular dessert item on the menu?

One of the most captivating creations on our dessert menu is Nimish, which I urge every diner to experience because of the complexity and attention to detail we’ve put in to unfold this creation.

As I was born and brought up in Jaipur, Rajasthan, I have very fond memories of enjoying Ghewar. This is a very famous Rajasthani sweet, enjoyed during the festivals of teej and gangaur. The pastry is very crispy and porous, textured like a honeycomb. Another well known sweet snack from that region is Gajak, which is made of sesame seeds, peanuts, and jaggery.

When I was visiting Lucknow during my culinary journey, I came across a sweet snack called Makhan Malai, also known as Nimish or Daulat ki chaat. It is a typical winter delicacy enjoyed in the streets of Lucknow, Kanpur and Varanasi.

It’s a frothy, foamy treat traditionally made by boiling fresh buffalo milk and cream. Once cooled, it is continuously churned early morning under the sky so that it gets mixed with dew drops, which helps in aeration and lightness.

I really wanted to do something fascinating with these treats, hence, a modern day model of this dessert was unfolded at Musaafer by making a light airy bar of Nimish, ghewar fried like a rustic honeycomb tuile, married with pistachio brittle, cardamom air, and Gajak soil.

5. Where do you find inspiration?

Every new challenge inspires me, and the inspiration gets stronger everyday, which proves the penchant in me to give something very valuable to the chef fraternity and the world of gastronomy.

And not to forget, Chef Ashish Bhasin. Calling him anything like a mentor would be an understatement. He has always pushed me toward excellence and understands the depth of my thought process. 

6. What’s your favorite ingredient to work with?

Millet has become my treasured ingredient to work with. After thorough research about the engrossing facts about this Indian super food, I have been working with great dedication to bring back the long lost indigenous Indian grains like Bajra (pearl millet), Jowar (sorghum), Ragi (finger millet), Kangni (foxtail millet), and the list goes on.

They all are categorized under high nutrient density grains, conferring with a lot of health benefits.

7. You moved three years ago to the United States from your home-country India. Did you need to adapt the desserts to American taste and how did you find the transition?

Honestly, I never thought of a need for transition to American taste. In fact, the concept of Musaafer is an educational tour for American diners. We are here to set a benchmark for Neoteric Indian cuisine in the United States. Our own Indian cuisine has a lot to give back to the community. 

The concept of Musaafer is a (culinary) educational tour for American diners.

Being one of the oldest civilizations, there are plenty of beautiful, mind-blowing ancient dishes, ingredients and techniques that are long lost or not in the mainstream. These dishes have always had a significant existence with nature and health. 

8. India is a huge country with a very diverse gastronomy. What would you say are the most striking regional differences when it comes to food?

Indian cuisine is heavily influenced by history, conquerors, trade partners, and the religious and cultural practices of its populace.

Perhaps, the most defining characteristic of Indian cuisine is its diverse use of spices and spice blends. Geographic and topographic diversity is another major influence. 

9. What are the top Indian desserts we absolutely need to try out?

The list for Indian desserts is endless. And names would be region and season specific. Gulab jamun is a good old delight and festive favorite.

Jamun
Jamun

Gajar Halwa and Jalebi are typical winter treats. Sandesh is one of the easiest ways to please your sweet tooth if you’re visiting Bengal. Innumerable varieties of payasams from South India are deliciously creamy, rice and milk pudding.

Phirni is another variety of milk pudding from North India prepared during festive occasions. Kulfi is a delectable summer dessert to relish. 

10. What sets a top chef apart from the pack?

I would say it’s not just about cooking. We as chefs think much beyond it. Chefs are an amalgamation of artist/scientist/doctor/nutritionist/hygienist and a lot more. 

This industry lands us in such situations everyday where we have to deal with new challenges and we learn from all these instances.

11. Best dessert you’ve ever had…

Mom-made food would be the favorite for every person on this planet and not just me. For me, it has always been Badam Halwa (Warm Almond pudding) made by mom. It is a typical winter delicacy and one thing I could live on for the rest of my life.

It seems simple, but it is a very delicate preparation of soaked almonds cooked with a liberal amount of ghee and a hint of green cardamom and saffron.

I picked up the recipe from my mom, and plan to launch a spellbinding version of it in our upcoming winter menu at Musaafer.

12. What advice would you give someone who wants to become a successful pastry chef?

Patience and passion is the key! Being a pastry chef is not just about creating fancy plates with top notch ingredients. There is a lot behind the flashy scenes. 

Ruchit Harneja
Ruchit Harneja

The prerequisites to be a successful pastry chef is the passion, desire, and love toward your work. Thrive toward growth in knowledge, fame will automatically follow.

13. Please provide a tip for home cooks that could help them improve their cooking.

Home cooked meals are always full of love and passion. The only aperture I see with home-cooks is the precision in measuring out ingredients and seasonings, even cuts of vegetables plays a vital role in the end product.

Banana Malpua.
Banana Malpua.
Vanilla Berries Cake
Vanilla Berries Cake
Qubani
Qubani
Gulab
Gulab

Chef Ruchit Harneja
Musaafer, Houston, TX
Instagram | Facebook

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