Chef of the Week: Chef Tohru Nakamura
Just recently, Tohru in der Schreiberei joined the exclusive ranks of Germany’s three-star Michelin restaurants—an extraordinary milestone for Chef Tohru Nakamura and his team. The announcement brought a wave of emotion and pride, marking the culmination of years of quiet refinement, culinary discipline, and heartfelt hospitality.
Known for blending his Japanese heritage with German precision, Chef Tohru has built a deeply personal and thoughtful approach to fine dining. His food reflects a harmony of cultures—rooted in Kaiseki traditions, powered by European technique, and elevated by an unwavering attention to detail.
We spoke with Chef Tohru shortly after the star announcement to reflect on the journey that led to this moment, how his cooking philosophy has evolved, and why a Carabinero prawn dish might be the most “him” thing on the menu. From early inspiration to thoughts on sustainability, it’s a conversation full of insight, humility, and passion for the craft.
Congratulations on your incredible success with Tohru in der Schreiberei. What was your reaction when you learned Tohru in der Schreiberei had earned its third Michelin star?
Tohru Nakamura: “My initial reaction was honestly a bit of shock and overwhelming gratitude. I remember I being very emotional reading our restaurants name at the videowall. A third Michelin star is something you dream of but never presume will happen. I felt incredibly proud of my team above all – this honor was a recognition of everyone’s hard work, not just my own. It was a very humbling moment too; beyond the excitement, I felt a deep sense of responsibility to uphold the standard that this third star represents.
We’ve always focused on giving guests an unforgettable experience rather than chasing awards, so hearing we had actually achieved that third star was unbelievable and very emotional for all of us. It took a while to sink in, to be honest, but once it did, I was just filled with gratitude and motivation to keep pushing forward.”
Was there anything you consciously did differently this past year that you believe helped earn that third star?
Tohru Nakamura: “I wouldn’t say we made any drastic changes specifically to get a third star. The truth is, our philosophy remained the same as always – we kept refining every detail and pushing ourselves to improve day by day. If anything, we doubled down on consistency and quality.
For example, we paid even more attention to details, the line-up of our team – with restaurant manager Alexander Will and Maître Sommelier Christian Rainer we’ve managed to get two very important pieces to our puzzle – and fine-tuned countless small aspects of the experience – from the pacing of the tasting menu to how the kitchen and service teams coordinate – to ensure everything ran as seamlessly as possible. It was more about honing what we already do well, rather than introducing any big new idea. In essence, it’s that steady commitment to excellence and little improvements every single day that I believe paved the way for the third star, rather than one specific change or initiative.”
Your cooking style is often described as a seamless fusion of German precision and Japanese elegance. How would you define your culinary philosophy in your own words?
Tohru Nakamura: “Our culinary philosophy is really about harmony and honoring both sides of my heritage. I try to bring together the meticulous structure and discipline I learned from European fine dining with the deep appreciation for seasonality and aesthetics I get from Japanese culture.
A big inspiration for me is the traditional kaiseki approach – the thoughtful progression and balance of a multi-course meal – which I adapt in a modern way using local German and European ingredients.
At the same time, I embrace the Japanese concept of omotenashi, which is a form of wholehearted hospitality that extends beyond just the food. In practice, that means every dish and every detail in our restaurant is executed with precision but also with an aim to evoke warmth and an emotional connection. I want to marry the clean, focused flavors and techniques of Japan with the quality and clarity of German ingredients and craftsmanship.
The goal is a cuisine that feels personal and balanced: precise without being cold, and elegant without being overly elaborate. It’s about creating an experience where guests can sense both influences coming together seamlessly on the plate.”
What dish on your current menu best represents who you are as a chef—and why?
Tohru Nakamura: “It’s always hard to choose just one, but a dish that really encapsulates my style is our Carabinero red prawn course. This dish has multiple elements and layers, each prepared with a lot of care.
For instance, we make a broth from Norwegian langoustine shells and set it into a delicate jelly as a base, and we incorporate a Japanese-inspired kimisu (an egg yolk vinegar sauce) to add a gentle acidity. We also fry the prawn’s long legs in a light tempura batter to add a crispy textural element, and we prepare a rich sauce from the prawn’s shells — almost like a French-style velouté enriched with a touch of champagne — to bring depth and round out the flavors. Finally, the Carabinero prawn itself is lightly grilled over charcoal and glazed with a hint of soy sauce, giving it a subtle smoky umami.
On one plate you have Japanese techniques and seasonings (like the dashi jelly, tempura, and soy) harmonizing with European culinary elements (like the classic sauce and the use of Spanish prawns). It’s a dish that’s very meticulous and multicultural, which is exactly how I’d describe my cooking. In many ways it tells the story of my German-Japanese background through food — blending those two culinary worlds in a way that feels natural and balanced, and, most importantly, delicious for the guest.”
You’ve worked in world-renowned kitchens across Europe and Japan. Which experience most shaped your approach to fine dining?
Tohru Nakamura: “I’ve been fortunate to train in quite a few places, and each of them taught me something important. Working at Restaurant Vendôme in Germany under Chef Joachim Wissler (a three-star Michelin restaurant at that time) had a huge influence – it instilled in me a real discipline and an obsession with precision and consistency.
On the other hand, spending time in Japan, training in a traditional Tokyo kitchen, showed me a completely different side of fine dining: the value of seasonality, patience, and the almost spiritual attention to detail and hospitality that Japanese cuisine entails. I was also lucky enough to work for chef Sergio Herman at Oud Sluis, which was recognized as the best restaurant in the world at the time. In addition to all the discipline, I also learnt to let go, go with the flow and loosen up.
But if I have to single out the experience that truly set the course for me, it would be my very first internship, with Chef Léa Linster in Luxembourg, when I was a teenager. Until that point I loved cooking as a hobby, but working in Chef Linster’s Michelin-starred kitchen was eye-opening – I never imagined a fine dining kitchen could be so exciting and creative at that age. That moment was a turning point that solidified my decision to become a chef.
Each subsequent stop – whether it was in Munich, Cologne, the Netherlands or in Japan – built on that foundation. But it was that initial experience of seeing the passion and excellence in a great kitchen that really shaped my approach and made me realize this is what I wanted to devote my life to.”
What’s the most valuable lesson you’ve learned in the kitchen that you carry with you every day?
Tohru Nakamura: “The most valuable lesson for me is that you can always improve and you can always learn. No matter how well a service went or what accolades you’ve received, there’s always something that can be done better the next day. I often tell my team that if we can just be a touch better today than we were yesterday, then we’re on the right path. I truly believe that.
It’s a mindset of constant, incremental improvement that keeps us humble and focused. This lesson also means staying curious and open-minded – listening to your colleagues, learning from feedback, and never becoming complacent. Every day in the kitchen is a chance to refine our craft. That mentality of continuous improvement, along with respect for teamwork and fundamentals, is something I carry with me and try to instill in others around me every single day.”
Michelin stars aside, what moment in your career has made you feel most proud or fulfilled?
Tohru Nakamura: “One of the most fulfilling moments in my career actually had nothing to do with awards or reviews. Recently, for example, together with my friend Graciela Cucchiara, who is an Italian chef, we organized a charity event where my team and I cooked very simple, homestyle food – I’m talking about dishes like lasagna and hearty stews – to support an organization that helps children with
disabilities. We stepped out of our usual fine-dining setting and just cooked comfort food for our guests, who enjoyed our soul food and did something good on top by purchasing the tickets for our event.
One of the most fulfilling moments in my career actually had nothing to do with awards or reviews.
I felt truly proud, not because of any culinary achievement in the fancy sense, but because our cooking made a positive impact on people’s lives in that moment. It reminded me of why I started cooking in the first place. That feeling of connecting with people and providing comfort or happiness through food – that’s more rewarding than any accolade. It’s a moment that stays with me and reminds me what hospitality is really about.”
What trends or shifts in the fine dining world are you most excited about—or cautious of—right now?
Tohru Nakamura: “I’m really excited about the shift toward sustainability and authenticity in fine dining. More chefs and restaurants are focusing on local, seasonal produce and paying attention to the environmental impact of what we do. I think that’s not only important but also inspiring, because it pushes us to be more creative with what’s available around us and to honor our local producers.
I’m really excited about the shift toward sustainability and authenticity in fine dining.
There’s also a trend of fine dining becoming a bit more relaxed and personal, less stiff than it used to be – chefs are bringing more of their cultural heritage into their menus and diners are embracing it. That openness and diversity in high-end cuisine is something I find very positive and energizing.
On the flip side, I am a bit cautious about the obsession with accolades and luxury that sometimes overtakes the industry. Of course awards are nice, but if everyone starts cooking for the Michelin Guide or the 50 Best list, we risk losing some sincerity. I also get wary of the “luxury for luxury’s sake” trend – dishes piled with caviar or truffle on every course just to look impressive. I always remind myself and my team not to get too caught up in how much caviar we can put on a plate. Those things are wonderful, but they should be used with purpose, not as a gimmick. So while I embrace the positive changes like sustainability and cultural exchange, I’m careful about not letting the core of what we do – making delicious food and making guests happy – get lost in the race to follow every new trend or chase rankings.“
What advice would you give to young chefs hoping to achieve excellence in the kitchen without losing their creative voice?
Tohru Nakamura: „My advice to young chefs would be to focus on building a solid foundation, but also never forget your own voice. First, really master your craft – learn the basics, learn proper techniques, understand flavor combinations, and put in the hours honing your skills. Work for the best people you can and absorb everything; every kitchen you work in will teach you something valuable if you pay
attention.
At the same time, keep your creativity alive. Don’t fall into the trap of just trying to mimic your mentors or chase trends that don’t resonate with you. Remember why you started cooking in the first place – that passion is your driving force and it’s what makes your food yours.
Also, be patient and stay humble. Excellence in this field doesn’t happen overnight; it’s a marathon, not a sprint. You have to be willing to grind and learn from every mistake. Embrace the tough days as lessons rather than let them discourage you. It’s important to find your own style, but that comes gradually, after learning the rules well enough that you understand how to bend or break them. And never stop learning – even now, I consider myself a student of cooking.
Finally, maintain your love for the craft. If you keep that genuine enthusiasm and curiosity, you’ll find ways to innovate and express yourself creatively while still achieving the highest standards. Cooking is hard work, but it should always come from the heart.“
Quickfire: Favorite ingredient you can’t live without?
Tohru Nakamura: “I’d have to say soy sauce. It’s a simple, everyday ingredient but it carries incredible depth of flavor. Just a dash of good soy sauce can add that perfect umami balance to almost any dish. I grew up with it always in the kitchen at home, and even today I find myself reaching for soy sauce instinctively. It’s such a fundamental building block in my cooking that I’d feel lost without it.”
Leaving fine dining aside, as someone with deep roots in both Germany and Japan, what traditional dishes would you recommend every visitor try when visiting Munich—or Tokyo?
Tohru Nakamura: In Munich, I’d definitely encourage visitors to try the classic Bavarian dishes that really define the local food culture. For breakfast or brunch, have a traditional Weißwurst (Bavarian white sausage) with a freshly baked pretzel and sweet mustard – and don’t forget a Bavarian wheat beer to go with it, if you’re so inclined, since that’s the tradition.
Then later in the day, something like a hearty Schweinebraten (roast pork with dumplings and gravy) or a crispy pork knuckle with sauerkraut is a must. These are not fancy dishes at all, but they’re authentic, soul-satisfying comfort foods that truly give you a taste of Munich’s heritage. You get the gemütlichkeit – that cozy, convivial feeling – when you sit in a beer hall enjoying those dishes.
In Tokyo, I would tell any visitor to explore the everyday favorites of Japanese cuisine. For example, find a small ramen shop and enjoy a steaming bowl of ramen – it’s one of the most comforting and delicious fast foods, and each shop has its own style. Also, definitely try some sushi, but you don’t need to go to the ultra-expensive places to enjoy it. Even a neighborhood sushi counter or a standing sushi bar can offer an amazing experience of fresh, high-quality sushi where you can watch the chefs work right in front of you.
Beyond that, grab some yakitori (grilled chicken skewers) at a local izakaya pub – standing in a crowded little bar, eating skewers and sipping a drink, is a classic Tokyo experience. And if you have time, sample other traditional bites: maybe a warm bowl of soba noodles, some tempura, or even street-food snacks like takoyaki (octopus balls) if you come across them. Tokyo has such a vast food scene, but by trying those traditional everyday dishes, you’ll get an authentic feel for both the comfort and the depth of Japanese cuisine, away from the fine dining side.“
Chef Tohru Nakamura
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Tohru in der Schreiberei
